The sights and sartorial styles from the opening weekend of London Fashion Week.
By Christopher Prince
Forget about manipulating your hair in all manner of twists and curls for an evening out and look to Holly Fulton's bedhead beauty. The Scottish designer referenced the surrealist artist Eileen Agar this season, reinterpreting her signature surface prints with all manner of beach paraphernalia.
A new silhouette to covet hot off the London runway is Emilia Wickstead's bishop sleeve. The designer made a case for the traditional puckered shape in pretty dress and blouse formations.
House of Holland
Citing the 1998 avant-garde black comedy Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, Henry Holland and his East London crew conjured a zeitgeist inspired style by the rather outlandish and distasteful wardrobe of Johnny Depp's deranged character Raoul Duke.
Gareth Pugh has been a huge supporter against the gentrification of the Soho streetlife, and it was his jumping off point for yesterday's penny-lined runway show. The penny signified luck and was a key motif throughout the collection. But it was his creatures of the night, clad in clown-like face socks and sparkly garb, that voiced the designer's attempt at sparring creativity versus commerce.
Anthony Vaccarello's Versus Versace show couldn't have been more star-studded. In attendence was Donatella Versace herself, sat alongside former Versus collaborator Christopher Kane. The show riffed on Vaccarello's innate sense of Parisian sex appeal, and featured a stellar model lineup that included Erin Wasson, Jamie Bochert, Malaika Firth and Constance Jablonski.
As New York-based designer Prabal Gurung continues to raise money for the victims of the recent Earthquake in Nepal, his emotions were interpreted onto the runway.
By Susan Devaney
“We’re working with a number of relief organisations on the ground to disperse the funds but the country will need much more than just that. Anything I can do to bring attention to what still needs to be done there, I will do. Society tends to turn to the next disaster quite quickly so it’s even more important that these efforts are continued,” Gurung told MOJEH back in May. On Saturday, April 25th 2015 Gurung’s ambitions permanently changed; a date that will forever be ingrained in his mind as an earthquake with a magnitude of 7.9 left a rising death toll in its wake in his home country. “I will be looking to help rebuild Nepal for the rest of my life,” he said without hesitation.
Prabal Gurung S/S16. Images courtesy of Getty.
And he brought the attention to the runway. 30 monks clad in familiar saffron and ochre robes opened his show, chanting. It was a small thank-you from the designer, who used his fashion connections to raise over $1 million for his country. Last season, he looked to his beloved Himalayas for inspiration, and again, his thoughts led to home. Working with simple and clean shapes – from slip dresses and deep-V sheaths – it was understated elegance. The rich colour palette of the monks’ robes was delicately splashed across painterly jacquards in Nepalese orange and rose. Sweeping gowns in silk charmeuse and chiffon floated across silhouettes with ease. It was a sincere gesture and ode to his birthplace.
“When the earthquake hit, I felt even more connected to my home,” he told MOJEH. “I have been lucky enough to build a following on social media and within the industry that has given me access to tools that spread awareness and raised close to $1 million. The Nepal Earthquake Fund’s team has started to build over 1,500 homes for those affected by the earthquake. It has truly now become an integral part of my business and lifelong commitment to continue to rebuild and help those displaced.”
It was an evening in homage of Alexander Wang as the designer celebrated 10 years in the business on day four of New York Fashion Week.
By Christopher Prince
2015 has been the year of the designer anniversary. We witnessed a best of 10-year tribute at Riccardo Tisci's Pier 26 show for Givenchy, and it's something we'll see again when Philip Lim stages his upcoming collection this week. Last night however was all about Alexander Wang and his decade-long career at his namesake label.
The wardrobe of Wang's urban tomboy has seen an evolution. Classic sportswear pieces associated with American fashion have been treated with a new type of New York grunge by the designer over the past decade, and this was the case for this season's spring/summer 2016 collection.
While Tisci re-referenced the past, Wang sought out a new dynamic approach in his fabled sportswear aesthetic. Wang noted that he wanted his models to look like they were wearing their own clothes to a casting - a definitive model off-duty look, only elevated with the designer's innovative fabric treatments.
Normcore has been a term thrown around for the past few seasons, but it was an element that applied to Wang's selection of mundane everyday garb showcased in this collection. He offered brilliant separates, as usual, with denim, army jackets, track pants and sporty t-shirts reworked in mesh and ribbed knitwear, which allowed the designer's off-duty vibe to transition from streetwear to high fashion.
A first for Wang was the debut of his menswear line on the runway. It's been a successful business move adopted by the likes of Riccardo Tisci and Miuccia Prada before, so it only seemed appropriate that New York's master of the market would eventually catch up. That masculine presence had an effect on his women's pieces too, introduced by the show's opener as Lexi Boling donned a strappy crop top and loose trousers crafted from men's tailoring fabrics.
Last night's show proved the staying power of the designer's street, sex and New York grit aesthetic. It was mashed and mixed together in a finale fashion film that projected on the cinematic screen behind the runway, in homage to Wang's epic legacy, for the whole of New York to see.
See our edit of the most standout looks from Alexander Wang's 10-year tenure:
There was a sombre mood meshed across the SS15 collections. As it drifted from designer to designer and crossed continent to continent, it became clear: Haute Couture had entered a new world. As we embark upon AW15, we take a look at what to expect in Paris this season.
By Susan Devaney
From Kendall Jenner to Naomi Campbell, Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci already gave us a sneak peek of things to come during his menswear show in Paris earlier this month. Calling them his ‘bad girls’, he sent 11 couture looks down the runway. Adorned in rugged denim and textured overalls, Tisci has already told us his theme: prison and workwear.
Givenchy, Haute Couture SS16 (shown at Men's Fashion Week in Paris).
Fragile flower appliqué danced across Fifties style skirts, colourful wool beanies comforted many a model’s head and bared midriffs were commonplace – but that was last season. What will Karl bring to the table this time around? Our guess is as good as any, but one thing is for certain: style and substance always go hand-in-hand for Chanel.
Citing iconic popstar David Bowie as his main source of inspiration, Raf Simons’ vision was firmly focused on freedom and change for SS15. With psychedelic patterns forming a strong silhouette, jumpsuits clung to the entire body in lycra. His collection drifted from the past to the future, back and forth like a swinging pendulum. The question is: will he still be playing with plastic?
Many of the pieces took a distinctive Russian influence from the artwork of Marc Chagall with heavily embroidered fabrics in richly decadent colours and fabrics for SS15. Moving from soft tulle to smooth velvet, textured pieces were streamlined. We hope designers Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri will (once again) incorporate a sense of historicism for AW15.
Last season designers spoke of worldly visions and thoughts, couture crossed continents and issues that matter. A sense of sadness was reflected from many a collection as they spoke of generating a sense of hope for the future. Will this still be plaguing their minds for AW15? We’ll soon see.
Prada set the tone for SS16 with a gender mixed runway in Milan and now Givenchy has kicked off couture week early in Paris - with a little help from some of the industry’s favourite faces.
By Jemma Walker
As the menswear-takeover of Paris comes to an end, Riccardo Tisci’s women have prevailed thanks to the designer’s limitless lace Haute Couture Fall 2015 collection. Kendall Jenner, Naomi Campbell and Joan Smalls were wrapped up in the French fashion house’s sharp tailoring and sheer pastel gowns – although large hoop earrings were the surprise must-have to emerge from the 11 couture looks.
A romantic palette of icy lilacs, powder yellows and sky blues were teamed with Tisci’s iconic religious references – channeling Givenchy’s powerful femininity – fall is all about the drama.
Givenchy Haute Couture, images courtesy of GoRunway
Miuccia Prada’s boys were youthful, spirited and bright – thrown in the play-pen with the women’s Resort collection and the runway was awoken by sartorial playfulness. A blur of kitten heels, rabbits and rocket ships – Prada set the tone for SS16.
By Jemma Walker
The blurring of genders captured lost childhoods, from the bunny adorned jackets to rocket ship sweaters and the retro sock-kitten-heel combination. As the all-seeing-eye watched over the catwalk, mini dresses and pencil skirts added femininity to the gender-nonconforming prints and boys adorned casualwear and relaxed tailoring. It was a refreshing change to the androgynous presence of women on the runway - we all want to be in Prada's gang.
The Men's Prada SS16 collection and Women's Resort collection
Bridal Fashion Week floods brides with abounding inspiration for their big day. Whether you’re planning an intimate vintage-inspired ceremony or an extravagant soirée, we’ve narrowed down the fairytale dress.
By Jemma Walker
Vera Wang’s dark fairytale encapsulates drama, from the sultry sheer material to the unique silhouettes – the New York-based designer creates haute couture bridesmaid and wedding gowns like no other. Fashioning sleek bodies with contrasting feathery mermaid tales - the powerful designs are fit for any bride with a taste for trends. Oversized black bows add alternative femininity and the unique, underwear-like nature of the collection is complimented by the small, tame trains adding functionality.
Vera Wang Spring 2016 Bridal Collection
The scene of ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ was set, with the brides carrying handfuls of vintage blooms dressed in delicately beaded gowns, Jenny Packham – arguably the queen of bridal fashion – conquers spring 2016. The sweet feminine silhouettes decorated with demure flowers, pearls and Swarovski crystals brought the fairytale to life. Loose natural waves fell around the models shoulders, with some adorning intricate pearl headpeices - bohemian beauty is welcomed in Packham's world.
Jenny Packham Spring 2016 Bridal Collection
Oscar de la Renta
The iconic dressmaker’s bridal collection turns heads with a flurry of feminine shapes, focusing on the simplicity of the 21st century bride with a touch of modernity. Forget your something blue - the spring collection updates classic lace gowns with a vivid pink sash. With Oscar de la Renta’s lace figure-hugging fishtail dresses, dramatic feathering and layered bandeau gowns to choose from, the versatile designs ensure there’s something for every bride. From detailed veils to crowns of fresh flowers - the freshness of spring is embedded with every stitch.
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2016 Bridal Collection
Take a glimpse backstage as we've found the best #BFW instagram posts to make you say yes:
Reminding us of a brisk fall breeze, the calm and relaxed autumn/winter collection from Stella McCartney effortlessly drifts along the runway leaving us with chills for all the right reasons.
Using a palette of soft ivory, grey, olive-green and navy, McCartney recreates a perfect wintery picture framed in pearls and we certainly want it hanging on our wall. For SS15 loose, comfortable trousers were the summer-time favourite and this morning they’re back with a wintery revamp. The roomy wide-legged trousers teamed with matching plunge jackets confirm the fashion house's motto: sex appeal doesn’t have to be hard work.
This season the Stella McCartney woman wears the trousers and whether they’re high-waisted teamed with a waist-defining belt or printed peg trousers, they’re subtly sultry. Fusing unlikely pieces together for a functional-yet-unforgettable outcome is after all what Stella McCartney does best and we weren't disappointed with a bold blue-green combination that challenged the notion: 'blue and green should never be seen'. Not alone in the tantalising tailoring, strapless tailored jackets layered over semi-sheer blouses create a womanly figure that encourages femininity with the strength of masculine androgyny dominating the Paris runways for autumn/winter.
This dreamy collection leads us into a winter wonderland full of warmth and practicability, not many designers can do stylish functionality but Stella makes it looks easy.
Stella McCartney, images courtesy of Getty Images
PFW: Day One Starts the Week in Style
March 4th 2015
Anthony Vaccarello delivered stars and spikes with a punk-inspired medley of black on black that delivered a sartorial punch in more ways than one. Staying faithful to his signature thigh grazing asymmetrical skirts; star cutouts and studs spoke of studied Americana. And that was before the cowboy fringing, bolo bars and press-studded tan suede made an appearance.
The asymmetry was amplified further as what at first looked like simple silhouettes revealed themselves to be anything but. Taking the idea through to its natural conclusion of one long trouser leg and one short, any potential discord was alleviated by a flowing half wrapped skirt. What could have turned into a novelty look was given an urbane twist in Vaccarello’s hands, paired with a decidedly masculine suede bomber jacket with contrast sleeves and offset by a single tough-girl teardrop ’tattooed’ onto models’ faces. Vaccarello’s is no Upper East Side version of Americana. Elaborately worked oversized belt buckles signal the return of the wide belt, with waists further emphasised by single cutouts at the torso and highlighted in places by a single belt buckle across an expanse of skin. Vaccarello knows his market and it’s one that isn’t afraid to stand out in a crowd. Androgynous tailored jackets proved to be highlights, a double-breasted three-quarter length jacket with leather panels at the sleeve sharp enough to open the entire show.
The young Belgian’s American West inspiration derives from the time he is spending in the States – travelling certainly featuring highly on his agenda now following his official appointment as creative director at Versus. His cleverly chosen inspiration provides a comforting return to familiar memories as well as an artistic device that allows Vaccarello to do what he does best: full on glamour.
With a collection combining such a potent mix of rock and roll and outré sex appeal, it was no surprise to see Donatello Versace leap up from her seat in the audience to congratulate the designer during the show’s finale. Collections as daring as this yet rooted in reality (these are real clothes designed for real (party) people), inevitably end up on the backs of rock stars and models, the young and the beautiful. Donatella sees in Vaccarello a kindred spirit and perhaps, in time, a successor.
Simon Porte Jacquemus gave us deconstruction, topless models adorned with little more than drawn on tank top straps and either two faces or none (some models walked the runway disguised behind blank paper masks). Surreal in the extreme but well executed too, which is undoubtedly the reason that Jacquemus is on the shortlist for LVMH Young Fashion Designer prize this year. Proportions distorted, half-tops cropped up to the bust on one side, oversized architectural trousers and enormous garter loops seemed to have lives of their own. The face paint inspired by Sebastian Bieniek’s ‘Doublefaced’ work, Jacquemus captured in this collection a childlike innocence in which anything is possible. Muted tones of khaki, navy and sky blue and exquisite construction provided a stable anchor on which the collection hinges without toning down its off-kilter message. If inspired young designers cannot toy with experimentally conceptual fashion then, really, who can? The smart LVMH money’s on Jacquemus.
Each X Other is the brainchild of fashion designer Ilan Delouis and artistic director Jenny Mannerheim, who operate the brand as an artistic and collaborative adventure, this season working with London-based artist, poet and designer, Robert Montgomery. Known for its unisex appeal and ‘the idea of the twin flame’, the label is intended to offer a timeless aesthetic, blending art and fashion. The label has surely fulfilled its objective for autumn/winter in a collection of minimal utilitarian separates in calming tones of slate grey, mid-blue and shine-flecked pinstripe. Huge cable knit jumpers, double-strapped jumpsuits and sleeveless silk tuxedo dresses are instantly covetable and would find a place in any considered wardrobe. This collection proves that androgynous fashion is no longer alternative but mainstream, and artful separates like these are its heart and soul.
By Charlotte Codd
Some of Milan’s most prominent names took to the stage yesterday, but what were their AW15 moods?
Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti of Salvatore Ferragamo debuted moody hues combined with a subtle military vibe. A surprising contrast with flashes of colour, fur and crochet add a luxe bohemian feel to an otherwise structured winter statement.
Salvatore Ferragamo, Photos courtesy of GoRunway
Marni’s creative director Consuelo Castiglioni took a move away from the brand’s previous collection, with the summer brights being left in the shade of the cooler climates darker colours. Some flowers still manage to break through in velvet and a mellow yellow, but overall the aesthetic focused on textures partnered with a belted, defined waist.
Marni, Photos courtesy of GoRunway
DOLCE & GABBANA
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana took the fashion crowd by surprise by furthering their fight against age in fashion. Following on from the Italian ‘nonnas’ being the stars of the Dolce & Gabbana SS15 campaign, for AW15 they lead the way for mothers and children on the catwalk. At four, five and six months old, ‘bambinos’ carried by their model mothers came away as some of the youngest catwalk debuts in fashion history.
Dolce & Gabbana, Photos courtesy of GoRunway
As part of one of Italy’s most famous fashion families, Angela Missoni took the usual summery, bright weave that has become synonymous with the Missoni name and updated it for winter with knitted coats and trouser suits as well as darker shades that suit the season’s mood.
Missoni, Photos courtesy of GoRunway