Emerald green, cyclamen, ruby, nude, pale blue, black, white and gold were Jeanne Lanvin’s favourite colours while her style alphabet consisted of kimono and pagoda sleeves, flat bows, geometric cuts, clovers, and jumpsuits. Despite making a return to these tendancies Olivier Lapidus’ first show as artistic director of Lanvin felt a little lacklustre. The standout looks included a black minidress with a draped back and tuxedo tailoring.
Championing glamour in a sportsluxe age, classical couturier, Galliano looked to fabulous pastimes like a spa moment at the pool and horse riding as his inspirations. The trench became a cornerstone of this collection; reimagined with plumes of air-light feathers, mosaic patterning and cut-out detailing.
Dries van Noten
In typical van Noten style, prints navigated the collection’s compass. In an array of opimism and cross-contextual reference points, patterns came out from a pastiche of origins. In a seemingly random blend Picasso’s Les Deux Demoiselles faisant leur Toilettes was called upon as a key motif as well as checks, florals, retro graphics and jacquards.