MFW: What You Need To Know

February 23rd 2017

22 Photos

Alberta Ferretti: Venice-printed chiffon, gondolier stripes and plush velvet embroidery dominated angelic gowns and hooded capes at the Italian fashion designer’s latest show. Signature silhouettes and feminine tailoring remained a key focus, while midnight blue and beige fabrics were worn with delicate ribbons and satin detailing.

Gucci: Graphic jewellery and headwear was paired with ivory, ruby-red and champagne hues. Whimsical florals and insect-inspired motifs donned shirts and accessories, while glitter and sparkle drenched shimmering tights and funky glasses. Bold colour combinations, slogan Tees, and Far East-laden props screamed Alessandro Michele.

Emilio Pucci: Colour, texture and patterns were, as always, experimented with at Pucci’s runway show, seen here in acid and meadow green. Basic shapes were married to trademark vibrant prints, while eye-catching long-fringed sleeves were elegantly matched with wide tailored trousers. To top it all off, clear plastic coats mottled with sparkling crystals proved to be a real head-turner.

Emporio Armani: Understated, yet bold, prints in classic shades (mostly black and white) strutted down the runway. Polka dot patterned coats, fur jackets and plastic skirts injected a dose of urban grunge into an otherwise sophisticated collection. Red velvet hems added excitement to modest black ensembles, as did small leather bags, gilded sneakers and ankle boots.

Etro: Roughly textured leather, Seventies-inspired ponchos, silk maxis and mid-length dresses were worn with geometric jewellery. Hammered silver accessories and gold-hardware embraced mid-century bohemianism, topped with patchwork puffer jackets, brocade robes and playful floral jacquard. Mandala insignias, and clashing kaleidoscopic fabrics really brought Etro's read-to-wear collection to life.

Fendi: “It’s the morning after the night before,” read the first sentence of the show notes at Fendi’s autumn/winter17 show. Elegant fur coats were superbly tailored, while bold autumn colours were worn with classic greys and caramels. Prince of Wales herringbone wools were carefully paired with patent thigh-high boots, pillar-box red hoops and oversized sunglasses.

Max Mara: Block-colouring in blood-reds, luxurious fabrics, loose and tailored silhouettes reign supreme. Pared-back elegance was demonstrated in various hues of coffee, walnut and gold. Cosy, cable knit cardigans and statement coats featured modest hem and necklines that somehow remained feminine and delicate.

Moschino: When it comes to runway casting, it’s hard to compete with Moschino. All-beige, cardboard cut-out and wrapping paper-inspired ensembles were worn by Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid and Stella Maxwell. Jeremy Scott’s latest collection was dramatic, thrilling and oh-so dazzling. Faux fringe and sequined plunging mini dresses strutted down the catwalk to George Michael hits.

Jil Sander: Inspired by the 1930s novel Independent People by Nobel-prize winning author Halldor Laxness, Jil Sander’s autumn/winter collection harks back to Iceland’s breathtaking landscape. Spring-morning greys, meak yellows, charcoal black and moss green dominated parkas, turtle-necks and ankle-grazing trousers.

Versace: Pared back staples were given a new lease on life with daring cuts, lengths and shapes, as well as sheer underskirts. ‘Unity, Love, Loyalty, Power’ was splashed across various hats, scarves and slogan Tees in a canary yellow and electric purple drenched collection that was all about contrasting textures and shapes. Sporty knits were kept elegant with sheer fabric, while oversized jackets were worn with the most daring and smallest of shorts.

Antonio Marras: Championing the strength of women, Antonio Marras’ collection heaved with layered complication and sly insertion. Plaid was combined with floral jacquard and exquisite embroidery, while prints and brocades danced upon tulle slip dresses and chunky jumpers. The odd parka, tracksuit and angular gown added a dose of contemporary streetwear in yellow and teal.

Bottega Veneta: Forties-inspired Hollywood glamour was particularly luxurious at Bottega Veneta’s autumn/winter17 show. Structured and polished ensembles were worn with dramatic, ballerina-inspired heels and sheer spotted tights. Puff-sleeved, high-waisted midi-dresses strutted down the catwalk, as did bronze-pleated vintage gowns featuring cascading black capes. Vintage, wavy locks were swept up into sophisticated up-dos.

Marco de Vincenzo: Lurex jumpers, clashing plaids and swaths of ruffles wowed at the autumn/winter17 show. Fantasy fabrics ranged from candy floss-pink chequered lace-up pumps to metallic-bronze structured ankle-length gowns. Alice in Wonderland concepts were pulled off with extraordinary skill, which was witnessed in the exceptional detail. Forget pared-back minimalism, Marco de Vincenzo is about unquenchable, gut-punching maximalism.

Dolce&Gabbana: Decadent jet-black faux fur shawls, clashing animal prints, mid-length hems, blinding sequins and strappy sandals featured at Dolce&Gabbana’s autumn/winter runway. Figure-hugging sheer dresses with ivory bow detailing and high necklines also made an appearance, alongside plenty of pillar-box red and patchwork punk-meets-Victoriana styling.

Marni: A nod to the future; patent boots were worn with sky-grey ensembles, while bold canary-yellow, burnt-orange and plastic-blue had a strangely ethereal quality that harks back to the Space Age-obsessed Sixties. Overall, it was a playful and modern collection that successfully combined the nostalgia of our past with society’s optimism and hope of what’s yet to come.

Salvatore Ferragamo:Fulvio Rigoni presented his second collection this week, which he described as “dynamic, sensual, luxe, comfortable.” Silk skirts, fitted polonecks and platform-soled jet-black booties were elevated with bold-coloured crocodile clutches and patent jackets cinched in at the waist.

From complementary colours to statement tailoring, as we hit the half way mark of Milan Fashion Week, MOJEH rounds up the defining trends that dominated the autumn/winter17 runways. View MOJEH’s runway reports for: Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Prada.