A revival of the past, and a nod to the heritage of the Milanese brand established in 1967, Pomellato’s second high jewellery collection ‘LA GIOIA’ is a striking revelation of timeless elegance with a contemporary twist. CEO Sabina Belli talks to MOJEH about the intricacies of the collection and the vision for sustainable luxury that drives the Pomellato legacy
“Never before has a Maison dared to integrate its heritage jewellery into a contemporary collection,” says Sabina Belli, the CEO of Pomellato – a woman who has been fierce in her pursuit of propelling women to embrace their true prowess. Ever since she took the reigns of the brand in her hands in 2015, she has led a new wave of change for contemporary women by ushering in a conscientious approach to sustainable luxury. “I believe that a company needs to share strong values with its audience. As leaders we need to pursue a higher purpose, to create a common vision that in my case drives the entire Pomellato family to create handmade and sustainable products that bring joy to women in the world,” she shares.
When the first LA GIOIA High Jewellery Collection was launched in 2020, it garnered appreciation in heaps and bounds for its innovative take on vintage jewels, selected from the archives only to be re-interpreted into unique new high jewellery pieces. The result was a re-telling of cherished stories that stemmed from a conversation with American artist and designer Sheva Fruitman, who suggested using vintage jewellery to create modern designs. Featuring eleven one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery that integrate iconic Pomellato legacy jewels from 1990 to 2014, Chapter I represented the stunning revival of rich past whereas Chapter II turns the page for a new story, and a different attitude. “This year we wanted to create a second LA GIOIA collection that could express the free Pomellato spirit in new ways,” says Belli as she explains the creative process behind the unique theme which encompasses the spirit of passion of the brand and the women who dare to identify with it. “The new LA GIOIA collection has two souls and two creative approaches. On one hand, there are pieces that echo one of Pomellato’s greatest passion – chains. On the other hand, LA GIOIA includes jewels created from our heritage jewellery pieces, which have been reinvented, taken apart, and re-imagined in a different form. Traditionally chains are seldom used in high jewellery, so we liked the idea of exploring this theme so dear to Pomellato.”
Conceived for the contemporary woman who is a change-maker and a forerunner in every field, this new chapter is an ode to the spirit of femininity, represented in three distinctive designs and yet, all returning to the central core – a link to the past and the present.
A Chained Tale
Focusing on the Maison’s signature design of the simple gold chain, Chapter II of LA GIOIA is a definite new take on the past, akin to the spirit of female powered dialogue, change and trends. Talking about the reinterpretation of the chain, Belli explains: “Pomellato’s chains are unmistakable, requiring the most experienced and sophisticated goldsmithing techniques and in LA GIOIA collection, they are the result of our quality expertise and manual dexterity.” A classic example of these techniques is observed in the Y-Chain necklace featuring geometrically disparate links and the Lock Chain necklace with randomly alternating links of yellow and white gold held together by a padlock. “In La Gioia, chains are interpreted in all their versatility, from long rebel chains to princess chains. In a way, chains epitomise freedom and creativity for the contemporary and sophisticated woman,” she says and veritably so. Moving from contemporary links to Princess and Absolute Chains, there’s something for every woman to wear with pride and passion, especially since the brand focuses on female empowerment – a sentiment that Sabina holds dear to her own career legacy. “As a woman and female CEO, the importance of female empowerment is a strong value. Women are change-makers and I think that today it is important more than ever to choose authentic values, in all areas of our lives.”
Links of Love
What makes LA GIOIA a genuinely remarkable collection, is that it puts a new spin on sustainable luxury, one that is at once meaningful and captivating. In 2018, the brand became the first to achieve 100% responsible gold purchasing by working with the Responsible Jewellery Council and using Fairmined gold, meaning collections and pieces that are fully traceable from mine to finger. “There is no future without sustainability,” says Bellini who integrates this vision into the Pomellato legacy for the future. “Being sustainable pushes the boundaries of creativity too. In our case for example the idea of upcycling precious vintage jewels to create brand new high jewellery pieces gave birth to some very unique creations in LA GIOIA. Innovation plays a big role.” And she couldn’t have said it better given the intricate details of the crafting process at the Casa Pomellato ateliers where over 100 craftsmen and craftswomen weave magic into these precious jewels. “Our own artisans create each and every jewel by hand, from melting the initial gold alloys to final polishing. Working closely with the design studio, the Pomellato Atelier of master artisans is the first step in the creation process,” she says.
It is here that the labor of love and innovative collaborations merge together. From creating prototypes, tuning design details, and exploring production techniques, the entire process in the factory is closely guarded to ensure quality control. “This ecosystem enables us to maintain high quality with innovative and sustainable methods.” Such is the labor of love in this new collection that, not only does it leave an impressionable statement about new luxury, but it also becomes a conversation starter, and a treasured heirloom for every woman who wears it with pride and responsibility towards the planet, people, and community. Explore the collection
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- Words by Odelia Mathews