Milan is undergoing a fashion renaissance, with its renewed energy, groundbreaking talent and revolutionary undertones, proudly showcased on the runway this season. MOJEH.com brings you the game-changing highlights of the autumn/winter shows in the Italian fashion capital.
By Aishwarya Tyagi
Emilio Pucci a/w16
Pucci Print Redefined
In his second collection for Emilio Pucci, Massimo Giorgetti expertly reinvented the brand’s signature bright geometric prints and subtly weaved them into intarsia knits of mountain landscapes on sweaters and down-stuffed coats, replacing the psychedelic swirls of the not-so-distant Pucci. The ski-driven autumn/winter collection is loaded with Sixties references with a bevy of retro colour block sweaters, patchwork pleated skirts and shearling coats printed with sports motifs.
Versace’s Athleisure
Donatella Versace’s intention to make luxury relevant to the new-gen customer was clear in her ‘athleisure’ Haute Couture show earlier this year. Likewise, her autumn/winter ‘Urban Glam’ show caters to a strong, smart woman who dresses for herself and not for the stereotypical male gaze. “The contemporary woman, she wears a peacoat, she wears a dress with long sleeves. She can be seductive and strong,” explains the designer in the show notes. An empowering athletic inspiration was evident throughout the show in black suits and belted coats, tailored biker jackets, sporty knit dresses, and printed chunky sweaters.
Fendi Inventions
After the colossal success of Fendi’s furry pom-poms that kick-started a bonafide trend in the past year and last season’s detachable Fendi Strap You bag that turned into an icon of its own, Karl Lagerfeld debuted five new accessory styles on the Fendi runway, each unique and typical to the brand in its own way. The iconic striped sweatband-like wrist cuffs, a furry choker to match the furry charms, thin leather sock-like boots and oversized furry mittens are a few of the highlights of the innovative luxury accessories of the season.
Politics and Prada
On her catwalk, Miuccia Prada offered a political and feminist message. In collaboration with Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin, she named each month after a woman, creating a cycle of the seasons inspired by the French Revolutionary calendar. Each look offered a maximalist vision of an antithetical world, divided between the rich and poor, where fur capes met with their utilitarian counterparts. A statement corset belt, un-alluringly cinched around tweeds seen in the same vein as hunting coats, brightly printed zipper jackets and fluid golden gowns all contributed to a collage-like representation of various personifications of womanhood. Miuccia Prada, regarded as a trailblazer in the world of fashion also re-wrote Italian history by being the first Italian brand to offer her autumn/winter runway bags The Pionnière and The Cahier available for a sale following a ‘see now buy now’ model.
Individuality in Beauty
Breaking the cloning process of models in runway shows, the biggest beauty trend for fall 2016 is the idea of individuality. Hairstylists and makeup artists across Milan generously embraced the natural hair textures and skin tones of the models and offered looks depending on their preference and personality. Customising each look at influential shows such as Gucci, Marco de Vincenzo and Max Mara, the season’s beauty offers a look for every taste.
Gucci a/w16
