For the upcoming autumn/winter season, designers draw inspiration from the darkly mysterious heroines of Fifties noir cinema. MOJEH.com explores the femme fatale inspiration taking over London Fashion Week.
By Aishwarya Tyagi
Roksanda a/w16
Erdem
Alfred Hitchcock’s 1940 psychological drama ‘Rebecca’, featuring Joan Fontaine, Laurence Olivier and Judith Anderson
Erdem’s darkly romantic setting of an abandoned manor, littered with vintage curiosities – velvet seats and chandeliers fallen to the floor and an upturned grand piano – added a gothic touch reminiscent of a noir film set and captured the essence of the Forties inspired collection. Daphne Du Maurier’s Rebecca played muse to the designer, matches by the eerie atmosphere.
A dialogue taken from Alfred Hitchcock’s classic adaptation of the novel played in the background as models walked down the runway reimagining the film’s protagonist in long opera gloves and jewelled hair clips. Dresses were enlivened with lustrous velvet and silvery fil coupé with an overtly historical feel. A cream sweater with a long skirt swishing with long cream fringe and gold tinsel took a more glamorous turn in true old-school Hollywood style.
Roksanda
Alfred Hitchcock’s 1954 drama ‘Dial ‘M’ for Murder’ featuring Grace Kelly, Ray Milland and Robert Cummings
Roksanda loves colour and unique contrasts. Her latest collection, with a touch of Victoriana primness, reminded us of the immaculate fur coatdresses in jewel tones of noir royalty, Grace Kelly and her character in Hitchcock’s Dial M For Murder. The designer successfully captured the polished elegance of the Fifties in fluttery sleeves, velvet bows and Pierrot-style collars. Sweaters and dresses were ruffled around the neck while ties on little fur stoles shrugged around tailored coats and eveningwear, ready for our stylish heroine.
