In a time when the outward thinking and artistic talents of designers like the late Alexander McQueen are few and far between, Sarah Burton remains courageous in her pursuit to both uncover and reveal who the McQueen woman of today is.
There are no allusions to the radical new direction, no dramatic veering off the brand’s powerful heritage but a deep seeded respect that has kept Burton at the head of her game for so long.
Which is why when she presented the label’s S/S 17 collection last night many couldn’t help but think that this was truly McQueen of the 21st century. Not just an homage as witnessed in previous collections but a true exhibition of Burton’s profound understanding of both the unique artistry at the core of this revered fashion label and the commercial aspect of the clothing. The collection itself very delicately touched upon a highly acclaimed S/S 08 show by Lee McQueen, in which the designer incorporated orientalism through brooding silhouettes and Jaipur inspired headpieces.
In a way that can only now be referred to as classic Burton, these codes were studied and reformed. Leather bustiers and corseted satin tops with Victoriana pocket flaps were paired with embroidered jeans and peasant dresses while jewellery subtly nodded to this same orientalist mood. Eveningwear was spangled in whimsical embroidery and delicately painted feathers. Our personal favourites however would have to be the supreme tailoring of the tartan coats and suit jackets that bring Mcqueen into durable daywear territory without compromising on style.
