From the the first ever post-Alber Lanvin show to Paco Rabanne’s futuristic street wear, we’re looking back at the noteworthy shows from Day 3 of Paris Fashion Week’s autumn/winter 16 shows.
By Aishwarya Tyagi
Lanvin a/w16
Lanvin
For the house’s first post-Alber Elbaz runway collection, the in-house design team presented an eveningwear range in Lanvin’s decidedly Eighties impressions. We could sense the former designer’s presence in the collection with the puff of a shoulder or the flip of a godet skirt, lace blouses and dresses; the New Romantics motif in particular, with dense fabric mixes with an emphasis on brocades was one that we’re all dreaming about.
Paco Rabanne
In a more humble approach towards urban wear, and Julien Dossena‘s more down-to-earth line-up was one of Paco Rabanne’s more accessible and relatable collections. With futuristic Japanese inspirations and a hint of French relaxed chic, the collection consisted of sporty and cheeky designs with distressed white viscose tanks, wide-leg mannish pants with folded pleats, satin bombers with Fifties car flame embroideries and low-rise boyfriend denim and an array of zipped duvet skirts. We loved the Japanese cherry blossom and tiger prints embroideries that offered a feminine touch to playful street wear.
Barbara Bui
Models marched down the runway at Barbara Bui in a plethora of shiny, black PVC trousers teamed with houndstooth patterns separates including capes, which also came in beaded and fringed versions. The Western influence in the collection is hard to miss with the tartan coats featuring slits, wide leg trousers that flared like a maxi skirt from behind, green ponyskin shirtdresses and some more clever surprises in designs and silhouettes.
Ann Demeulemeester
Creative director Sébastien Meunier’s androgynous autumn/winter 16 collection was an ode to Apollonian beauty. Black topcoats featured yawing hemlines and the odd loose strap. The carefully sculpted, counterintuitive layering was one of the show’s highlights with the odd metallic pop seen in slim pants and topcoats—provided a bit of feminity to temper the darkness of the collection.
