Chalayan’s take on Japanese silhouettes and Isabel Marant’s overall Eighties’ punk made for some noteworthy fashion moments from day four at PFW where we spotted some of the new season’s key game-changers.
By Aishwarya Tyagi
Isabel Marant a/w16
Isabel Marant
The Parisian designer’s a/w16 show was a personal ode to her hometown, reliving the greatest memories of her life in Paris. “With all the sadness that has happened in Paris, it felt like the time was right to party and have fun,” she explains in her show notes. In an widely Eighties inspired show, Marant showcased a selection of oversized coats in tweeds and Prince of Wales check which were either belted or signature studded with pins, while a ruffled collar peeked up from under lapels. The punk icon of the era, Edwige Belmore, was a huge influence on Marant and could be felt in the bevy of polos, tennis sweaters, and padlock chains. The designer’s cool-girl Parisian chic outfit resonates with city-chic stylistas across the globe.
Chalayan a/w16
Chalayan
The show notes at Chalayan explained that the collection was an eight-chapter thesis on Teutonic culture.”Known ultimately for its economic success, Germany is currently a very compelling destination for Middle Eastern migrants. However, Germany is also responsible for many other facets of western culture that we overlook and take for granted.” “The road sign jacquards were meant to capture a drive on the autobahn, but real destinations were replaced words from German fairy tales.”
The collection itself was close to Hussein Chalayan’s creative tendencies, playing with darkness, light and shadows. The collection seperates on the runway came with crisp folds, accentuated seams, kimono sleeves and wrap waists, that together with long, lopped-off ponytails were reminiscent of ancient Japanese influences. Utilitarian jackets also made appearances with embroidered digital numbers and German words mingling with arrows and symbols like a roadmap furthering the inspiration of the night.
