The official Autumn Winter ’24 season has kicked off with New York Fashion Week. The mood so far has veered into capturing the essence of transformation, seamlessly blending tradition with innovation. Designers navigated the complexities of the modern world, infusing their creations with a sense of introspection and global consciousness. Here are Mojeh’s highlights so far:
Tommy Hilfiger revisited the hallmarks of American sportswear, infusing classic staples with renewed vigour. The collection was a homage to the timeless, from impeccably tailored khakis to the quintessential navy cable-knit, all reimagined with a contemporary edge. Hilfiger played with proportions, from the exaggerated silhouettes of varsity jackets and peacoats to the redefined lines of chinos and crewnecks.
The collection brought a fresh perspective to preppy essentials, transforming rugby and polo shirts into chic dresses and elevating button-downs with exaggerated, sculptural collars, encapsulating a modern take on classic Americana.
Gurung’s collection was a dialogue between Eastern sportswear and Western drapery, a narrative woven into the very fabric of his designs. A standout coat, echoing the sari draping of his Nepalese heritage, paid tribute to familial traditions while ushering in the season’s protagonist, shearling, in various guises from subtle trims to statement pieces, occasionally paired with luxurious muffs.
Proenza Schouler reimagined luxury this season with a whisper, not a shout. The designers delved into the essence of sophisticated outerwear, drawing inspiration from the quintessential ’90s aesthetic of Helmut Lang, paring back to reveal the core of minimalism. Amidst the global discourse, there was a pivot towards introspection, a yearning for a touch of the personal and the intimate within their creations.
The tailoring emerged crisp and precise, evident in the meticulously pressed lines adorning the sleeves of an immaculate white three-button jacket, balanced by an undercurrent of comfort in the plethora of plush shearling vests and coats, striking a chord of relatability.
The collection flowed with a softness, the silhouettes relaxed, echoing the ethereal nature of dreams and memories, a testament to Gurung’s desire for a collection that felt not just seen but lived in.
Peter Do’s sophomore outing for Helmut Lang marked a significant stride in confidence from his initial debut, presenting a collection that honed in on the art of tailoring with a laser focus on the architectural lines of jackets and coats.
Do contemplated the duality of protection and projection, crafting suits resonating with Lang’s legacy’s essence. The collection’s occasional nods to the archives, such as the Chinatown bag plaids, hinted at a dialogue with fashion’s past. Yet, it was clear that Do’s journey was one towards forging his distinct sartorial language.