It was art in the abstract at Marni as designer Consuelo Castiglioni made sense of shape and form.
By Christopher Prince
Consuelo Castiglioni has been a master in subverting trends for the mood and manner in which women approach their wardrobes. Therefore trying to decipher the codes of a Marni collection becomes all the more challenging, and this season was no less perplexing than the last. The concrete catwalk that staged the show was in direct reaction to the silhouettes that walked down it. “It was about movement and fluidity and suspension,” the designer said backstage. “But at the same time, architectural in the cut of the dresses, but still fluid.”
For spring/summer 2016 the designer utilised the concept of abstraction and manipulated forms to dress – and somewhat undress – her Marni muse. That began with models sporting fresh faces with lashes lacquered sparsely apart, and hair sectioned into interlocking braids centre-parted down the crown.
The Marni accessories were some of the strongest seen so far at Milan Fashion Week. Most notable were the gold plated earrings that mimicked the wings of a sycamore seed, along with Bauhaus-style acetate and versions in cubed shapes.
While there were other references to Bauhaus, particularly in the graphic colour block leather shoppers and scrunched leather clutches, Castiglioni also offered a standout fur tote with harness strap, complete with gold hardware.
Castiglioni’s shoe this season was a fresh take on the standard open-toe sandal, and it arrived in varying graphic colourways with leather straps crossing this way and that. Also on offer were flat cutaway boots, and an iteration on the classic Mary Jane shoe.
An exploration in fabrics and prints were in abundance too, namely in Castiglioni’s treatment of lace, which formed polka dot overlays and wide mesh textiles. The combination of bright primary hues and sequin manipulations in leaf motifs added a vitality to the linearity of the collection.
Black was the choice hue in the final three looks, acting as a palette cleanser post-neon bombardment. An eveningwear option zoned in on Castiglioni’s use of shape, creating a languid silhouette in oversized proportions.
