Alexis Mabille Haute Couture AW15
Les petites mains, the craftspeople of the haute couture world, spend months creating breathtaking one of a kind couture. MOJEH.com brings you an edit of some of the standout details on the AW15 couture runways.
By Natalie Trevis
Flying High
When time is a luxury commodity the hours of artisanal artistry required to construct light as air gowns from individual feathers mean that plumage remains a mainstay of the couture collections. While offering depth and texture on pastel bodices at Bouchra Jarrar and opulent gowns at Ralph & Russo, the effect of movement and intricate layers was recreated in delicate lace at Chanel, in Lagerfeld’s very own flight of fancy.
Giant Jewels
Jewellery must be bold and beautiful to hold its own against the fantastical creations of couture week. This is no time for minimalism. Raf Simons subverted the norm with vertical chains at Christian Dior attached from the neckline to waist and adding a hard edge against which his nymph-like creations could lean. Jean Paul Gaultier reflected his traditional codes in dark pendant necklaces in shapes reminiscent of his beloved anchor and Stephane Rolland found new ways to examine a beautiful constriction in the form of neck-encompassing gold chokers.
Crowning Glory
Headgear proved avant-garde and theatrical throughout the SS15 couture collections yet this season saw a transition towards a more refined aesthetic. A sense of romance pervaded cascading autumnal floral crowns at Atelier Versace while gold filigree headbands complemented Elie Saab’s lavishly beaded (and infinitely bridal) gowns.
Back to Front
Couture is designed to wow from every angle – no opportunity to embellish, reimagine or transcend boundaries is left unexplored. So it should come as no surprise that many a collection emphasised the elegant lines of the back, the gowns impressing just as much as the models turned as they did on first glance. Bertrand Guyon at Schiaparelli offered a newfound ode to Elsa, with gilded cowl-backed gowns heightened by an intersection of crystals skimming the back. This might just prove the most graceful way to reveal without revealing this winter.
Cultivated Clutches
Clutches took many forms in Paris this week, from pearl-like globes at Ulyana Sergeenko to gilded works of art that floated alongside Elie Saab’s diaphanous dresses. Discreet in size yet statement making in design, these little doses of loveliness are all that is required for an evening wearing couture.
Beautiful Belts
Femininity is unbounded in the magical world of haute couture and the waist is rarely neglected. Structured giant bows offered a love letter to the feminine form in pretty pinks and ruby reds at Alexis Mabille. Art Deco influences at Stephane Rolland manifested in gold-rimmed polished mineral clasps on fabric sashes and have us once again contemplating the statement belt as an eveningwear proposition.
