Niche perfumers in the Middle East are reinventing themselves to find popularity among the cool kids. From the global woke consumer to the curious Gen Z, here’s why everyone wants a spritz of local scent
Bespoke, culturally aware and ultra-exclusive fragrances are increasingly on the radar of young perfume wearers. Driven by their need for individuality, young trendsetters and early adopters are discovering the appeal of regional niche fragrances.
Oman-based luxury niche fragrance house Amouage, one of the most globally popular brands from the region, emphasises its uniqueness for young perfume wearers. “I think what contributes most to the momentum is the deep desire of young people to be unique. I think we are in an era where self-expression is extremely important. Young people want to be recognised for who they are, people want others to acknowledge that they’re unique and the belief that diversity should be valued and glorified. From this point of view, the niche perfume is a novel way to express this uniqueness,” says Renaud Salmon, chief creative officer of Amouage.
Happy to pay for quality products, very particular about personalisation and highly concerned about ethical standards, Gen Z seems to be the perfect match for regional niche perfumers. The ideal consumer for such brands is now between the ages of 16 and 35, considerably younger than the traditional niche perfume wearer.
A fresh interpretation of the amouage triad of rose, frankincense and ambergris aims to make guidance a warm, poetic experience. Created to reflect the contrast of delicacy and inherent strength of femininity, the fragrance is an amber floral blend where notes of osmanthus, pear and jasmine are interspersed with sweet vanilla and hazelnut for a unique and ultra-feminine scent. Guidance, Amouage
Having borrowed from the art and craft of concocting fragrances developed in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt and the Indus Valley civilisation dating back more than 4,000 years, perfumers from the Middle East are loud and proud of their roots. Some of the locally-sourced ingredients in niche fragrances from the region include rose water, juniper, frankincense, myrrh, frangipani and saffron, scents often customised and layered according to the whims of the wearer. These superior ingredients, coupled with sophisticated techniques and high-end technology, drive up the prices of these super- boutique fragrances. “Oud, although not specifically from the Arabian Peninsula, is highly coveted and valued as it holds religious as well as cultural significance. Musk from Oman has many health benefits for its aroma and can also be chewed like gum. Rose from the Taif region in Saudi Arabia is one of the highest quality of roses found around the world,” says Talha Kalsekar, founder of niche fragrance house Maison De Noya.
These distinctive perfume brands find the young generation to be more open-minded and accepting of different cultures, while being appreciative of local traditions. “The use of trendy aesthetics, sustainability efforts and influencer collaborations are part of our strategy to capture the attention and loyalty of younger perfume wearers in this region,” says Ahmed Alesry, general manager of specialist perfumer Oman Luxury.
A new take on ojar’s frankincense collection, encens cuivre brings arabian tales together with contemporary stories for a dreamy masterpiece. The fragrance draws its narrative from three treasures from the depths of the earth — frankincense, myrrh and gold. Top notes include elemi and rosewood while patchouli, myrrh and frankincense form the core notes. The fragrance finishes strong with ambergris, musk and vanilla. Encens Cuivre, Ojar
Gender fluidity in bijou fragrances is a big draw for a generation that doesn’t like to conform to the norm and prefers to mix things up. “We personally don’t believe in scents linked to gender — it depends on the mood, the moment and perhaps even the location that you are part of. Each scent smells differently on each person and each individual has their own journey with the scent,” says Forat Al Haider, creative director of Ghawali, a boutique luxury perfume house by Chalhoub group.
However, it takes a lot more than just a sweet-smelling potion to sell perfume to young fragrance wearers today. Storytelling and sustainability are as important as the scent itself. Armed with rich heritage, encyclopaedic knowledge and ethical practices, niche perfumers come up trumps compared to global luxury fragrance houses. “I think storytelling is crucial because the perception of perfume is an aesthetic — it’s something you not only enjoy through your nose, but through all your senses. Fragrance is meant to evoke emotions and the stories leading to those emotions have to be strong. That’s what perfumes are all about — emotions,” says Renaud Salmon. Anecdotal narratives and that personal touch are also all-important to speak to young perfume wearers. Sheikha Hind Bahwan, founder of Oman- based fragrance house OJAR, illustrates the beauty of the authentic stories behind her fragrances: “My passion for fragrance is a cherished inheritance from my mother. She was an artisan of scents, crafting her own perfumes at home. My earliest and most treasured memories involve joining her in this aromatic art, blending different perfumes together. This experimentation with scents blossomed into a deep-seated passion of mine, forging a special bond between my mother and me. It’s a family tradition that I hold dear and continues to be a significant aspect of my life.”
The nose behind this fragrance, valerie bessone, was inspired by the simplicity of youth. An ode to childhood memories of a mother’s cooking, the scent profile includes saffron, bergamot and lemon in the top notes; lily of the valley, cedarwood, violet and peach in the middle notes and the base notes are caramel and vanilla. Saffron dreams, Maison de Noya
Collaborations with local artists, performers and photographers are helping the brands connect with contemporary culture, in another form of storytelling. “For our limited-edition launch, 9PM in Saudi, we had an interesting creative process with various talented Saudi artists such as photographer Designless, 3D artist Amr Khaled and a fashion capsule collection with Proud Angels, to celebrate the mood, vibe and atmosphere of Saudi Arabia,” says Forat Al Haider.
Sustainable practices and ethically sourced natural ingredients, recyclable packaging and mindful production cycles are major factors attracting the ‘woke’ global crowd into the fold. Niche perfumers, by default, produce in smaller numbers and are ethical in their approach to perfume making, which makes them ripe for the new-age consumer.
Paris-based niche perfumier Creed Fragrances sees a marked difference in the regional market, compared to the rest of the world. “The Middle Eastern market stands out with its unique characteristics, notably a preference for potent fragrances and the significance placed on personal relationships, a departure from markets like Asia, where customers may lean towards less personal engagement,” says Sarah Rotheram, global CEO of the heritage brand, which dates from 1760.
With top notes of praline and chocolate, ghawali’s best-selling fragrance smells sweet enough to eat. This delectable perfume is our top pick for its romantic appeal and feminine case, along with a soft and delicate scent profile. Notes of amber dictate its core and base notes of cosy woods, vanilla, bourbon and musk leave a lingering trail. Love Note, Ghawali
However, there are some preferences that hold true worldwide, such as priority on premium quality and the increase of standalone boutiques with VIP rooms and customisation elements. The growing awareness of niche perfumery from the region, personal engagement and better visibility will cement the place of local fragrance houses under both the local and global spotlights. With the help of slick packaging, stronger branding and an authentic connect with the younger generation, niche perfumery in the Middle East is coming up roses.
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- Words by Priyanka Pradhan
- Photography by Vrushali Chaudhary and Nitin Narendran
