Introducing Indian-born, Dubai-based fine jewellery designer and gemmologist Pavit Gujral as part of MOJEH’s series championing new design talent
Describe Pavit Gujral Designs in four words.
Bespoke, bold, inspired and opulent. I aim to create pieces that are extravagant, handcrafted with passion and creativity, and made using the best grade of gemstones. Each piece is bold, tells a story and leaves a legacy.
Who is the woman that wears your brand?
She could be a CEO, a homemaker, a chef, an artist or whoever she is comfortable being! She is bold and it’s all about how the pieces make her feel.
Talk us through your inspirations.
Nature and animals have been my biggest inspiration. I am also a certified scuba diver and have an entire collection inspired by it. Architecture and my travels also play a very big role in my designs: I have the Sylvan collection inspired by the forest, the La Fleur collection inspired by flowers, the Marine collection inspired by scuba diving and, of course, the Voyage collection inspired by my travels.
When does a gemstone speak to you?
Being a gemmologist, I love gemstones that are rare, rich and colourful, regardless of their value. I have a special inclination towards phenomenal gemstones; those that portray some kind of special characteristics due to their chemical compositions or inclusions, such as colour change in alexandrite and play of colour in opal.
Where is your start point in the design journey?
It begins with an inspiration or an idea which is then conceptualised into a sketch and 3D render. Finalising the design takes the majority of the time as it requires a lot of skill and understanding to perfect. The pieces that are inspired by animals, such as the Squirrel ring, Al Maha brooch and Langur earrings, take longer as it’s key to get the anatomy right. Once the design is finalised, I go on to choose the best suited gemstones. On the other hand, I often create a design around a special gemstone that I purchased during my travels. Such designs are unique and have a beauty in the randomness of shapes.
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Your pieces are colourful. How does colour make you feel?
Happy, inspired and lively. Being passionate about colour is a design element for me. I enjoy coming up with new combinations that have never been seen before. For example, the blue and orange in my Twilight collection or the green and pink in the Squirrel ring.
What are your favourite gemstones?
Every gemstone is unique in terms of its colour, chemical properties, shape and origin. I love using exotic and colourful gemstones that are ethically sourced and are of the highest quality. I also tend to use a lot of lesser-known gemstones such as kunzite, spessartine garnet, tsavorite garnet and moonstones. I also love playing with unique combinations of colours. Another personal favourite is the paraiba tourmaline, which I also wear on a daily basis. It’s neon blue colour and its rarity attracts attention every time. I also love the pinkish orange padparadscha sapphire for the same reasons. Lastly, I love alexandrites due to their colour change property.
Tell us about the Banded Sea Krait earrings.
The Banded Sea Krait earrings from the Marine collection are set in 18 carat gold with pear brilliant tanzanite, round brilliant diamonds and black diamonds. I have never seen a more venomous yet graceful marine animal as the banded sea krait. Named for the black vertical stripes that streak their white bodies, banded sea kraits are found in the coral reefs of the eastern Indian and western Pacific oceans. The earrings have been designed in a vertical form to capture the moment when the beautiful marine snake goes up to the surface of the ocean to drink water or catch a breath of fresh air.
Tell us about the Langur earrings.
These are from the Sylvan collection, made in 18 carat gold and featuring two 77.60-carat pear brilliant morganite beryls, Tahitian pearls, princess diamonds, round brilliant diamonds and orange sapphires. Inspired by India’s leaping langurs that can be all at once holy, helpful and pesky, the Langur earrings are one of the most playful pieces at Pavit Gujral Designs. Also known as ‘a monkey that knows no bounds,’ the earrings are fun, and it almost seems as though the cheeky Langur is teasing you. Explore the collection
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- Photographed by Ausra Osipaviciute