Katie Ermilio has fashion in her blood. Granddaughter to Grace Kelly’s personal clothier, she was part of the recent CFDA Fashion Incubator programme and is a Forbes 30 under 30 talent in Art and Design. We talk with the designer to find out how her youthfully uptown designs are taking her fashion legacy to the next generation.
Interview by Natalie Trevis
Designer Katie Ermilio
How did your journey as a designer begin?
If my great-grandfather had not founded Ermilio Clothiers, I cannot say with absolute certainty that I would ever have discovered that I was a designer. Growing up in my family’s custom clothing business, fashion has always been a huge part of my life. I began making clothes when I was a student at New York University and my work in design continued to flourish throughout my internship at Vogue magazine and into my first job as an assistant at Teen Vogue. Each collection definitely grows up with me, in a way.
How has you family history influenced you?
My father and our family business has influenced me in so many ways, and continues to shape my work through tailoring and construction techniques. The importance of foundation, structure and material is something that will never leave me or my design process. I am also certain that my grandfather’s work for Grace Kelly, too, has something to do with my deep appreciation and love for classic beauty and femininity in clothes.
Tell us about your earliest fashion-related memory.
Dressing myself when I was a little girl. It was always jeans or dresses, which still rings true in my personal style today! Even as a young girl, I understood the power of clothes and how fashion can be transformative.
Katie Ermilio s/s16
What has been your most cherished fashion moment so far?
One of my favorite fashion memories was seeing Kate Bosworth in the Watteau Pleat Gown from the autumn/winter 2014 collection at the Tiffany Blue Book Ball in 2014. Kate is one of those incredible women that can completely make a look her own, and it was such a special moment to see her in one of my favourite pieces from the season.
Do you aspire to be a quintessentially American designer?
I do. To me, being an American designer means that I approach my collections with elements of sportswear and design for the way we as women live in our clothes. The pieces must be as wearable as they are beautiful, and always embody that notion, whether it be in the pure construction or the spirit of the aesthetic.
Katie’s studio workspace
Tell us about your clean and minimal aesthetic.
I am drawn to things that are tightly edited and well curated, whether clothing or otherwise. I strive to keep my silhouettes feminine and sophisticated, but also clean and effortless for the wearer. Touches of feminine detail balanced with minimalism allow the collections to remain fresh and youthful, while remaining inherently feminine.
Which designer do you most admire?
Raf Simons during his time at Dior. He remained brilliant at keeping the spirit of Dior alive through designs and work that are entirely his own.
What has been the high point in starting your own line?
Starting my own label five years ago was the biggest chance that I have ever taken. Yet, at the risk of sounding cheesy, it is pretty exciting that I get to design clothes every day. Being able to see the pieces come to life during the presentation of each collection is something I look forward to at each fashion week and it is always a high point for sure!
How would you describe your personal style?
Personal style, to me, is about more than just clothes, but in the way a woman carries herself. Personal style that is completely authentic is what I find the most exciting, but mine happens to be mostly about what is easy-to-wear and comfortable. To describe it in three words: Minimal, classic and streamlined, no matter what the occasion.
What’s your favourite place to shop in New York?
Barneys New York!
And your favourite place to be in the world?
With my friends and family.
What do you think of fashion in the Middle East?
Fashion in the Middle East is incredibly exciting! It has a life and an energy that is all its own. To me, this quality is as special as it is rare. Women in the Middle East are passionate about clothing and dressing, which is something I share with them as both a designer and a woman.
What does the next year hold for Katie Ermilio?
I am not certain yet, but if the next year is going to be anything like the last five, I know that it will be filled with a lot of clothes, expanded collections, and a lot of growth and excitement!
