The Paradox of Modernity and Tradition result in Haute Couture Alchemy at Valentino.
Reflecting on the concept of Haute Couture, Piccioli considered its traditional and contemporary habitats, a paradoxical notion that seemed to underpin his design philosophy this season. According to the show notes, the collection aimed to be “rooted in modern life, yet it returns to true dressing.”
Piccioli’s vision was to marry the historical grandeur of couture with the practicality of contemporary clothing, considering each garment individually and crafting it to painstaking detail, imbuing each with significance and purpose. He focused on construction, voluminous shapes, precise cuts and juxtapositions of unexpected colours and textures. Piccioli eschewed elaborate embroideries, yet, the craftsmanship remained as intensive as ever, evidenced by innovative techniques that gave materials new life and illusion.
Each outfit became an exquisite paradox of sensory delight with each look embodying a perfect amalgam of fantasy and pragmatism. Indeed, Piccioli seemed concerned with the newer generations not knowing the difference between Haute Couture and ready to wear, he said in his mini press conference before the show. He’s keen to remind everyone that couture is specifically made on each individual, so it is the ultimate personal experience.
The show notes mentioned a quest for perfection, a passion for the handmade and a fascination with the creative process. These elements came across in every creation: oversized jackets, palazzo trousers, and uniquely trimmed pieces offered a luxurious take on everyday attire. Take for example a green, glossy men’s coat made of small discs bonded with patent leather emulating crocodile skin, or a sheer chiffon top decorated with what seemed like feathers but, upon closer inspection, were crafted from organza. “The magic comes from the illusion,” Piccioli said. Another notable number was striking rust-coloured coat, that looked like it was crafted from metallic sheets, worn over pink loose-fitting overalls. You know a collection is outstandingly good because it’s near impossible to pick a favourite look.
For the evening there was no shortage of show-stopping gowns that, even when lacking traditional embellishments, required immense skill to create. For example a deceptively simple-looking draped green gown, required a minuscule pleating technique to create its visual effect. This dress was crafted in Valentino’s atelier in Rome by 81-year-old artisan Antonietta de Angelis. Like her, other skilled artisans help bring Piccioli’s visions to life, blending artistry with the allure of the unseen, and continuing the storied tradition of Haute Couture.
