Elie Saab, a true dreamweaver for women, has consistently transported our imagination into the realms of fantasy since the inception of his Beirut-based couture house in the ’80s. On this occasion the designer dreamed of an enchanted medina, with a collection promising marvelous encounters at every turn evoking the beauty that can only painted in the words of the hakawati.
Saab’s remarkable talent lies in the meticulous attention to detail and opulence of his embroidery work; the sheer intricacy of his decorations. He embarked on a journey to unveil what he called DESERT ROSE infusing his creations with sultry breaths of Marrakesh. This resulted in a lavish showcase of intricate 3D embroidery, gold-trimmed cutouts, and delicate floral organza apliqués, adorned with crystals.
Just as in the previous season, and as is customary with Mr. Saab, his silhouettes remained long and relatively simple, featuring pleated chiffons and silks that moved as if caressed by a desert breeze. Some of the more elaborate designs focused on accentuating the waist and A-line skirts, with the most dramatic pieces featuring capes, trailing trains, and décolletages that exuded lavishness.
Sequined embellishments gracefully adorned grids-like confectioned bodices of chiffon gowns. These ensembles were often accompanied by coordinating capes that added an extra layer of elegance. A notable look closely resembled the one worn by Jennifer Lopez, whose arrival at the show sent the crowd into a frenzy. This was a long, flowy column chiffon dress in slate grey with a deep V-neck, cinched at the waist, and topped by a shorter version of JLo’s feather flower cape.
Interwoven throughout the collection were chiffon and silk duchesse dresses, heavily embroidered in silver, alongside cape dresses in soft hues such as dusty pink, peach, taupe, apple green, and amethyst — all exuding a sense of luxurious elegance. Towards the finale, a refreshing departure from heavy embellishments saw some numbers focusing mostly on pleating and fabric, underscoring Saab’s ability to drape with finesse and proving that he’s far from a one-trick pony.
