By Susan Devaney
The fashion pack may be fighting flu, blustery winds and tired feet, but the nearing end of New York Fashion Week showed no sign of slowing down for anything, or anyone.
NYC yellow cabs and black-chauffeur-driven cars raced Downtown to Spring Studios at the crack of dawn for America’s most-loved designer, Michael Kors. From model Jessica Hart to Lily Alridge, the stars were aligned on the front row. Perched and poised, the fashion elite waited to see where he would transcend his customer to next.
Tweeds, trousers and box-white crisp shirts were streamed down the runway. Moving from opulent furs to silk foulards, luxe textures were in abundance. Kors predominantly stuck to an earthly palette for autumnal weather. With the all-American sweetheart Karlie Kloss closing the show in a silver lurex dress fit for the night ahead.
Leaving Downtown behind we walked straight into the woods. With a backdrop of falling snow and bright white paper-esque trees, we were enveloped by a wintery wonderland. Madrid-based designer Josep Font held us by the hand and took us into his inventive world.
Art-formed and structural pieces took precedent. Like seasons past, he blurred the fine line between fantasy and reality. Inspired by artists Rhys Lee and Audrey Remnev, a painter’s palette was seen: from yellow to green to blue. On the surface the structure of his designs appear simple, but the prints, patterns and construction are more than complicated.
Back to Downtown, and Jason Wu has us wrapped in bright white lights. In a weaving in-and-out formation, the set is 3-D. Having recently taken on the role of women’s creative director, Wu wanted to state his presence, first and foremost.
Built on tailoring (no surprises there) the collection’s foundation were straight lines. From silhouettes to structure, everything was sharp. Every piece of fabric is laser-cut – no scissors are used, ever. Forming an industrial motif, felt-wool and crepe fabrics mixed to give a strong, but feminine essence. With a roaring applause, the sound of approval was sealed.
The penultimate day ended in 945 Madison Avenue. Proenza Schouler had us twisting and turning for the chance to see every creation, from every possible angle.
With a warrior-like aesthetic, textured fabric wrapped like bandages around bodies. Ponyskin-covered coats and dresses were luxuriously heavy and foiled under the light. Strips of soft fur bounced on shoulders and delicately lined waists. Web-like tights were pulled to the ribs and fringed footwear were statement-makers in progress. Running from black to red to grey, the collection was a shade darker than usual, but with a lick of dominance and power.