The curtain fell on Paris’ Haute Couture week, leaving in its wake a realm of splendour unparalleled in recent memory. At the heart of this luminescent spectacle were the resplendent jewels of the 2024 Couture showcases, casting a modern glow upon historical elegance.
Amidst the grandeur of Place Vendôme and its surroundings, esteemed ateliers such as Chaumet and Dior paid homage to their illustrious heritage, while Boucheron ventured boldly into ceremonial attire.
Amidst this treasure trove, yellow diamonds emerged as a leitmotif, their rare allure celebrated by Graff. The brand, with its founder Laurence Graff having heralded the charm of these gemstones since the 1970s, transformed its Parisian flagship into a sanctum of its most iconic canary diamond masterpieces.
Here are some of our Haute Joaillerie highlights from the City of Light:
Cartier
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In a splendid continuation of last year’s ‘Le Voyage Recommencé’ collection, Jacqueline Karachi, the visionary creative director behind the brand, drew inspiration from the rich tapestry of the natural world, embracing the elegance of flora and fauna through meticulous design. With an artful blend of lines, volumes, and a vibrant palette, the creations pay homage to nature’s diversity and the myriad cultures around the globe.
Among the array of exquisite pieces, colour-rich necklaces stand out, featuring intricately carved gemstones that evoke the intricate beauty of sea urchins and the majestic grace of panthers. A crowning achievement of this collection is the ‘Yfalos’ suite, a mesmerising ensemble of jewels, its vivid colours and bold designs inspired by the enchanting hues of a tropical coral reef.
Boucheron
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The new collection, titled ‘The Power of Couture,’ sees creative director Claire Choisne drawing nostalgic inspiration from the couture heritage of Frédéric Boucheron. Choisne’s creative vision transforms humble rock crystal, a signature material at the Maison for decades, into a fresh approach of ceremonial attire. This transformation involves the ingenious application of rock crystal and diamonds, resulting in pieces that evoke military braids, bows, buttons and frogging.
Among these creations is an ingenious necklace that resembles a collar decorated with gleaming medals, a painstakingly crafted masterpiece that demanded over 2,000 hours of work. Additionally, a pair of pendant earrings graces the collection, resembling neat lines of engraved buttons. This intricate deconstruction gives rise to 24 High Jewelry pieces, illuminating a new perspective on couture craftsmanship.
Dior
At Dior, Couture detailing took center stage, as one would expect. Creative director Victoire de Castellane’s collection, ‘Délicat,’ bore a striking resemblance to the intricate embroideries found on Christian Dior’s couture gowns.
The collection showcased complex compositions of diamonds, rubies, sapphires, rubellite, and tanzanites, expertly arranged to mimic airy lace, floral detailing, and rows of impeccably neat stitches. These creations appeared as if they were meticulously crafted by the maison’s own skilled artisans.
Among the offerings were earrings, necklaces, and cuffs featuring vibrant combinations of rubies, sapphires, rubellites, and tanzanites, reminiscent of floral appliqué. A particularly noteworthy detail was the use of rose gold, meticulously hand-carved into strips resembling delicate ‘ribbons.’
Graff
Graff’s latest collection showcases unparalleled craftsmanship with an array of yellow diamonds, Colombian emeralds, Mozambican rubies, and Sri Lankan sapphires, all enhanced by white diamonds for added brilliance. The designs are modern and bold, with graphic lines and asymmetrical layouts, featuring necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings that highlight the beauty of these rare gemstones.
A standout piece is a diamond bangle with a 118-carat cushion-cut unheated Sri Lankan sapphire, encircled by over 39 carats of round and fancy-cut diamonds in a radiant arrangement.
Another highlight is the Lozenge and Emerald Cut Emerald Necklace, set in platinum and white gold, featuring a 23.08-carat emerald and 37.47 carats of diamonds, epitomising elegance and luxury.
Louis Vuitton
The ‘Power of Couture’ collection by Claire Choisne at Boucheron reinterprets the brand’s couture roots, inspired by ceremonial wear. Choisne innovatively uses rock crystal and diamonds to craft pieces resembling military braids and decorations, including a notable necklace shaped like a medal collar, requiring over 2,000 hours of work, and earrings reminiscent of engraved buttons.
This collection introduces 24 High Jewelry pieces, offering a fresh perspective on couture.
Francesca Amfitheatrof at Louis Vuitton enriches the ‘Deep Time’ collection with fifty new pieces, drawing from the ancient worlds of Gondwana and Laurasia.
The collection features a notable seven-row necklace blending gold and platinum with yellow diamonds and integrates modern exploration themes with signature gemstone cuts and designs reminiscent of the brand’s travel luggage. Amfitheatrof’s work also includes geometric designs inspired by primordial DNA and a necklace inspired by early fungi, showcasing pink and purple spinels with diamond details.
