FENDI’S Poetic Pragmatism

30 Photos
Photos courtesy of Fendi.

Kim Jones, FENDI’s Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear, drew inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld’s futuristic vision, infusing the latest collection with a deep sense of humanism. At the heart of this vision lies the essence of couture: the body’s silhouette, intricate handwork, and the seamless blend of structure and decoration. Jones aimed to capture both precision and emotion in his designs, a testament to his innovative approach to fashion.

This season’s FENDI Couture showcased a pragmatic yet poetic dialogue, moving beyond mere costume to embrace practical elegance. The collection was a testament to the skilled artisans at FENDI’s ateliers, from embroiderers to furriers, all contributing to a line that reaffirmed the wearer’s humanity, making them feel like ‘someone’ rather than ‘something.’

The concept of ‘human futurism’ threaded through the collection, merging historical constants with modern sensibilities. The introduction of the ‘Scatola’ silhouette—a box-like structure—heralded new dimensions in fabric manipulation, using materials like silk gazar to create voluminous yet structured forms. Tailoring hugged the female form with precision, employing traditionally masculine fabrics like super kid mohair, while knit dresses in cashmere and vicuna yarns introduced a sensual, wrapped aesthetic.

Crocodile leather was a recurring element, adding a primal touch to both clothing and accessories, enhancing the collection’s fluidity and movement. Embroideries played a pivotal role, merging decoration and structure to create a ‘future skin’ that was both innovative and organic.

The collection also explored the concept of precious practicality, extending last season’s ‘couture ensemble’ to include fine jewellery and eyewear. Delfina Delettrez Fendi, FENDI’s Artistic Director of Jewellery, introduced ‘Singular Vision’ eyewear, customized through facial scans and crafted in 18k white gold and diamonds. Silvia Venturini Fendi, the brand’s Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, reimagined the iconic Baguette bag in luxurious materials, from mink-lined crocodile to intricately embroidered versions, underscoring the collection’s luxurious craftsmanship. The Gem Baguettes made a notable appearance, showcasing intense craftsmanship and opulence. A standout was a Mini Baguette featuring 18k white gold and a diamond-pavé buckle.

Adding to the excitement of the show, renowned composer Max Richter’s musical collaboration underscored the collection’s themes of precision and emotion, with a score that perfectly echoed Jones’s visionary approach, marking another successful chapter in FENDI’s couture journey.