Paris Fashion Week is currently underway, and top fashion houses are skillfully blending tradition and modernity to capture the essence of contemporary fashion. The debut of Chloé’s new creative director and Schiaparelli’s business baroque showcase each designer’s unique exploration of heritage, the current turbulent times around the world, and what everyday wear means today.
Chemena Kamali, the German-born creative dynamo, certainly aced her inaugural collection for Chloé. The consensus among editors and buyers suggests a resurgence of the brand’s golden era. Chloé was originally created by Gaby Aghion in 1952 and not many know about the brand’s historical connection to the Middle East. Aghion was born into affuence in Alexandria, Egypt, in 1921. Her early exposure to French culture and fashion, nurtured through her family’s status and her penchant for French fashion magazines, laid the groundwork for her pioneering vision.
Meanwhile, Kamali’s journey at Chloé began over two decades ago as an intern under the tutelage of Phoebe Philo. She then ascended through the ranks, eventually bringing her talents to Saint Laurent before making a triumphant return to Chloé.
Kamali’s debut collection paid homage to Chloé’s signature elements, particularly the Bohemian charm and natural femininity that Karl Lagerfeld famously infused into the brand during the ’70s. Kamali’s vision for Chloé was a modern reimagining of this era, with an array of romantic blouses, airy chiffon dresses, and western-inspired details, all embodying a liberated womanhood.
Yet, amidst the ethereal ruffles and translucent fabrics, Kamali introduced a bolder, more structured dimension with high-shine leather pieces, adding a contemporary sharpness to the collection’s romantic essence. This blend of soft and hard elements not only highlighted Kamali’s adept craftsmanship but also underscored the evolving narrative of femininity that Chloé continues to tell.
In these challenging times, Rick Owens introduced a touch of softness at his latest show, held at his Parisian base in the 7th Arrondissement. The intimate salon-style setting, surrounded by the evocative art of Anselm Kiefer and Carol Rama and Owens’ imposing sculptures, set the stage for a collection that offered a gentler perspective amidst the usual bold silhouettes. This season, Owens showcased shearlings and blanket-like wraps, contrasting his typically stark designs with a comforting contrast.
The show’s hairstyles were a spectacle, with dramatic ‘electrocuted’ looks crafted by Duffy. Owens continued his creative partnership with London’s Straytukay, unveiling inflatable boots enhanced with new ridged leather details. True to form, Owens’ cultural flair was evident in his signature Perspex platforms and zip-embellished flares, marrying his avant-garde aesthetic with practical, earthy elements.
Julien Dossena has embraced a return to the practical with his latest collection for Rabanne, channeling a casual-cool vibe brimming with versatile separates. Drawing inspiration from the everyday styles he observed on the streets of Paris and the daily commute, Dossena has crafted a collection that mirrors the eclectic mix of influences seen in city life.
His designs blend a variety of textures and patterns, from leopard prints and retro-inspired ’70s-’30s Lurex Deco knitwear to a modern twist on the classic Rabanne chainmail, reimagined in Argyle patterns and crystal-embellished tights.He offerd everything from chunky, utilitarian coat-jackets to floral bohemian dresses. Dossena’s approach this time around is all about making fashion functional without losing the sense of fun and flair that defines Rabanne.
The studio team took the helm for Givenchy‘s fall collection, setting a high bar with the opening piece: a cocktail dress featuring dense silver bead embroidery and a chic trailing train, nodding to the brand’s couture roots. What ensued was a collection that balanced decorum with boldness, showcasing elegant tailored suits and evening gowns. Meanwhile gowns captivated with graceful fabric sweeps at the neckline or back, a nod to the brand’s rich heritage.
The collection also revisited the basque silhouette, a tribute to the brand’s founding style, seen in the draped, doubled waistlines of several dresses. The outerwear continued in this vein, embodying Givenchy’s timeless, refined aesthetic with each piece respecting the house’s established codes.
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Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli is redefining the iconic brand and stayed away from front row celebrity antics of past seasons. The collection unveiled a refreshing approach to tailoring with a tweed suit, devoid of a shirt or bra, featuring high-waisted, generously cut trousers, signaling a more relaxed fashion ethos. This innovative spirit extended to unexpected pairings, like a corset with ultra-oversized pants, cinched with a bandana.
Roseberry’s vision for statement outerwear merges Schiaparelli’s humor and creativity with ease, evident in a navy peacoat with branded buttons and a whimsically quilted puffer jacket. The line also included stretch jersey dresses with trompe l’oeil effects and intricately beaded evening wear. Meanwhile, the eccessories, from high-top sneakers with molded toes to rhinestone-embellished ‘S’ shaped heels, underscored Schiaparelli’s blend of the extraordinary with everyday reality.
Isabel Marant made it very clear she’s not about “Quiet Luxury.” Yet, what results is not technically loud but a collection of ultra-desirable pieces, embodying the quintessential, nonchalant Marant style that you’ll cherish for ages. A friendly reminder of what has made her such a French style icon.
Alongside artistic director Kim Bekker, Marant unveiled a stunning fall collection that took their experimentation with materials to new heights. Leather took centre stage, crafted into scrunchable boots perched on slender heels, some adorned with detachable jewelry, and laid-back suede bags fringed for an effortless flair. These pieces exuded a distinct gaucho essence, echoed throughout the collection with fringed skirts, cozy blanket coats, suede scarves, and notably, a striking pair of black trousers embellished with tassels and silver studs, paired perfectly with a casual black trench.
The collection was a textured tapestry of chunky knits, leopard print jeans with a rock ‘n’ roll edge, practical jumpsuits and jackets, and an array of bangles, all contributing to its layered richness.
