This season in Paris, we’ve witnessed a vivid mosaic of contrasts, yet themes of darkness and conflict persistently emerge, both subtly and blatantly. On Sunday, the somber elegance of Valentino’s ‘black widows’ stood in stark contrast to Duran Lantink’s exuberant and colourful ski armour, while Mugler’s theatrical allure drew from the brand’s vampiric archives.
Chitose Abe’s recent Paris showcase was a vibrant testament to her 25-year journey of deconstructive design, a craft honed under the tutelage of Rei Kawakubo, the visionary behind Comme Des Garçons. Abe made a name for herself for her ability to hybridize fashion elements, deifying conventional categorization. This 46-look collection, comprised entirely of dresses, was a profound exploration of this theme.
A trench coat revealed layers of checked silk underneath, a black field jacket was seamlessly combined with a crisp, white-collar shirt, and a pinstripe blazer merged with a windowpane plaid kilt, all crafted as singular garments.
A standout piece was the pantaboots, a bold reinterpretation of tuxedo pants with silk stripes, which upon closer inspection, were over-the-knee boots merged with trouser bottoms. It was a narrative of evolution, drawing on her roots in deconstruction to push the boundaries of design, promising exciting prospects for both fashion aficionados and retailers.