With more than a century of history under its lavishly jewelled belt, Bulgari is Italy’s hip answer to the straight-laced Place Vendôme Maisons. But it’s only within the last 10 years that the brand has really been able to call itself an horologer — and with the awarding of the prestigious Aguille d’Or watchmaking prize to the Bulgari Octo Finissimo at the Grand Prixd’Horlogerie in 2021, it was finally recognised by its peers and since then has grown into its power. Although the House often seems to have something of an identity crisis — Italian agility in design versus Swiss horological precision, all owned by a French luxury conglomerate— its international nature is evident in its ‘expect the unexpected’ feel. Here MOJEH speaks to Antoine Pin, the charismatic managing director of Bulgari’s Watch Division, to find out more about what’s driving the brand to ever more dizzying heights.
AP: It adds the dimension of functionality, offering both the elegance of fine jewellery and the practicality of a timepiece. It merges artistry, craftsmanship and utility, creating aunique and valuable addition to a woman’s accessories repertoire. There has been a growing demand for women’s watches that not only serve as beautiful accessories but also offer advances in horological features and technical complexity. Bulgari’s Divas’ Dream collection, with its automatic calibers and the addition of complications like minute repeaters or tourbillons, exemplifies this shift towards offering women’s watches with enhanced technical capabilities. It showcases the brand’s commitment to combining elegance and mechanical craftsmanship.
AP: The archives provide a sense of continuity and authenticity, allowing Bulgari to maintain a strong brand identity and a recognisable aesthetic. They serve as a constant source of inspiration, reminding the Maison of its heritage, craftsmanship excellence and innovative spirit. The unique fusion of Italian flair, architectural inspirations and vibrant gemstones that characterise Bulgari's designs can be traced back to the archives, making them an invaluable resource for creativity.
AP: Serpenti Tubogas Infiniti is a real revolution for us froma development point of view. We completely rethought the construction of the Tubogas bracelet to be able to set it with diamonds. The historical design did not allow for gem-setting and we had to rethink the technique while keeping the recognisable design virtually intact. Now each link is crafted separately with its unique dimensions, diamond-set and polished before being assembled into the bracelet. We are finally able to showcase our unique know-how as a jeweller and to express our creativity with Serpenti even more. This new version offers us infinite possibilities in terms of creativity and the innovative use of precious materials.
AP: By having movements designed and manufactured in Switzerland, which has a long-standing reputation for fine watchmaking, Bulgari can tap into the expertise and precision of Swiss watchmakers. On the other hand, having the jewellery and gem-setting taking place in Italy, a country known for its rich history in high-end craftsmanship, allows us to leverage the Italian flair for design and creativity. Our creations showcase the fusion of two art forms, blending them seamlessly to produce watches that are true works of art.
