The SS15 runways redefined the waist with silhouette sculpting cinchers in all manner of offerings. To transition from winter’s oversized normcore garb take a look at our edit of the most prevalent belts to incorporate into your wardrobe this season.
By Christopher Prince
Utilitarian, practical and timeless, the classic buckle belt is an ideal solution to nip in the waist when wearing a smart skirt suit seen at Jason Wu, a sporty shirtdress at Hugo Boss or to simply hold up an enveloping skirt at Jil Sander. It’s all about balancing the silhouette to create an ultimate hourglass feminine figure.
Adopted from traditional Japanese kimono dress, the obi belt (Kaku obi) swung from waists in gargantuan lengths for SS15. While it was mostly tied at the smallest part of the waist at both Marni and Alexander Wang, there was a breakout at Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe show, with obi belts worn low on the hips to compliment paperbag trousers. To achieve the ultimate obi belt look opt for a linear silhouette, tailored or structured.
For those looking for a more romantic approach to belt dressing the sash offers a pretty alternative to the metallic hardware of a buckle belt. Focus on the tactile with fabrics that compliment your outfit. See Bottega Veneta which showcased languid bows in complimentary stone hues tied just beneath the bust. At Christopher Bailey’s Burberry Prorsum show the concept was botanical with plumes of chiffon jutting from waists. Meanwhile Sportmax riffed on frayed hems with a similar interlocking weave belt tarnished at the ends.
Taking an Avant Garde approach were designers that incorporated metals to cinch waists. This trend allows for a little more creativity, whether in the colour of the metal itself or the shape which arrived in all manner of architectural proportions on the SS15 runways. See the Rodarte keyhole version strapped with leather, or Costume National with their cylindrical buckle. For something more discreet look to Phoebe Philo’s Céline woman who donned trinket-like cows bells around the midsection.