Simone Rocha’s AW24 collection, “The Wake,” brings to a close a compelling triptych that began with “The Dress Rehearsal” and was followed by “The Procession,” her haute couture presentation for Jean Paul Gaultier back in January. This concluding chapter delves into mourning attire, specifically inspired by Queen Victoria’s era, reimagining the concept of garment preservation by infusing traditional styles with innovative, subversive twists.
Staged in the venerable St Bartholomew the Great, London’s oldest parish church, Rocha’s presentation took on a salon-style approach, a refined nod to her recent foray into Haute Couture. This setting allowed for an intimate appreciation of the collection’s intricate details, from the complex structuring designed to balance elaborate adornments to the subtle interplay of historical reverence and modern reinterpretation.
A standout accessory was the plush dogs with red beaded eyes, inspired by the Church Grim—a mythological canine thought to escort souls to the afterlife. This haunting motif offered a mesmerising, deathly, and seductive farewell that will linger in memory, marking a fitting close to Rocha’s poignant narrative journey.
