The strength of the Céline armour is devout in strong, sharp silhouettes. But there’s room for motion as Philo continues to push her designs for the modern woman. This spring recalled a focus on prairie fashion interwoven with ingenious cut-out formations and handkerchief motifs. And for fall, a foray in elegant draped necklines and cocoon outerwear. Expect an entirely new direction this season.
Philo’s penchant for fringe has made an appearance in both her spring/summer 2015 and autumn/winter 2014 collections for Céline. It’s a quiet statement for the designer, whether plumed in feathers, smattered on belted outerwear or splayed in tassels a la modern day flapper girl, the tactile quality of fringe is a surefire hit for the brand.
Accessories have always been a solid selling point for Céline. Philo’s ability to incorporate the personal with the commercial is perhaps one of the biggest elements to Céline’s cult following. SS15 referenced pastures new, with prairie cowbell buttons and metal hair clasps. While AW14 focused on the clarity of coloured gems, with models sporting solo earrings garnished with all manner of trinkets, we expect a major jewellery movement this season.
While most designers prefer to display dainty shoes on the runway, Philo instead opts for functional footwear. Last season saw the opinion-dividing ‘woman’s work’ shoe – a riff on the elasticised flat donned by hosptial workers, only updated with a chunky heel. The season before debuted orthopedic glazed leather wedges edged with contrast stitching. So it seems only natural that we’re fully expecting another trophy shoe to appear for autumn/winter 2015.
The trope of any Céline collection is infused with Phoebe Philo’s own cool girl aesthetic. Ahead of this afternoon’s Paris Fashion Week show, MOJEH.com asks: what can we expect for the Céline AW15 woman?
By Christopher Prince
A Dressed Down Phoebe
Finally, just like the Céline woman, Philo herself takes comfort in long, languid separates. Perfectly cut, pristinely styled, the creative director is the ultimate gatekeeper of the Céline brand.
A New ‘It’ Bag
No design has been as popular since Philo debuted the iconic luggage tote in 2010. Garnering an avid fan following, the cult Céline classic has since spawned a whole plethora of ‘it’ bags each season. From huggable ponyskin satchels for AW14 to Philo’s latest curved clutch pieced from crocodile calfskin and lined with suede, there’s always room for another piece of delectable arm candy.
It’s rare to see famous models crop up during a Céline lineup (it’s probably best to not hold your breath for a sneaky Kendall Jenner appearance). Philo loves her fresh faces, featuring nondescript girls as silent muses for her Céline vision. This lends to a familiar beauty look for her shows – brushed hair, barely-there make up and a winged eye.