Did any of the spring/summer 2015 trends shout your name? We take another look into some of our favourite trends from MOJEH Issue 25 as part of our Style It series.
By Natalie Trevis
The trend that is all things flora and fauna never really leaves the runway but ebbs and flows each season between oversized blooms, micro-florals, abstract prints and an array of floral 3D imaginings. SS15 was no exception, where blooms were typically larger than life and given a dark romanticism by being placed frequently on darker backgrounds. The flower power envisaged by both Marni and Alexander McQueen took a samurai-inspired turn (a somewhat darker execution in the case of the latter), while Max Mara and Céline took a brightly coloured head-to-toe approach that embodies all the optimism of spring without a pastel in sight. How to recreate the look on the street? Any which way, from clashing statement floral print separates to picking a standout floral bedecked summer coat; bring the garden into your wardrobe.
Peace, love and music might be the defining features of the Woodstock era but the fashion left an impression too. The bohemian sensitivities of the Sixties and Seventies were played out in many of the SS15 collections. From Alberta Ferretti’s sweetly feminine suede fringing to Roberto Cavalli’s knife-pleated maxi dresses and Prada’s tan-toned carpet coats, the revival continues full speed ahead. Chloé encapsulates the spirit of the look in one simple white broderie anglaise dress that is perfectly carefree for summer (just ask Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, who wore it to Coachella this week). So channel Jane Birkin and Stevie Nicks and add a bohemian twist to your look, whether a paisley print on loungey tailoring, a pared-back take on daytime lace or clashing stripes in luxe fabrics. Give peace a chance.
It may be a wardrobe staple but that doesn’t mean that you can’t have a little fun updating the way you work denim into your wardrobe for spring. Reimagined in multiple forms, denim just got luxury. Reflecting an overall spring/summer aesthetic that leans towards the casual; collections from Gucci to Kenzo to Stella McCartney relied heavily on a head-to-toe reworking of our beloved sturdy cotton. Jeans are wider in the leg or tapered and cropped (goodbye skinnies) and denim jackets are back, from a patch worked drop-shouldered version at MM6 Maison Margiela to cropped and boxy a la the Nineties at Michael Kors. If light-wash denim calls out to you for spring, join Karl Lagerfeld’s technicoloured SS15 feminist protest and work an oversized utilitarian shirt with patch pockets and fringing. Darker saturated tones are ever elegant and minimalist shirting and pencil skirts are office ready straight from the runway at Christophe Lemaire. Sporty, tasteful or urban, denim works every which way for spring.
Sir, Yes Sir!
If a palette of neutrals is your idea of heaven, then the military trend is one that will keep you chic in khaki all summer long. With more fluidity and grace to the look than we have seen in the past, this is less about strong military jackets (i.e. Balmain circa SS10) and more about softly flowing silk shirt dresses (Ralph Lauren), hardware free low-slung tailoring (Jason Wu) and voluminous belted cargo dresses (Marc Jacobs). Army surplus shades ranged from deep military green to safari-ready taupe and were styled almost exclusively with black and white (Rodarte hitting this note perfectly in the best military slash varsity jacket of the season). This literal return to uniformity could be an anti-fashion statement railing against the peacock-like circus of street fashion or just the natural progression of the norm core movement. Either way, don a jumpsuit, khaki knit or silk bomber jacket and enroll in fashion’s understated army.
Forget preconceived notions about rucksack wearing students, gap year travellers or hikers, the SS15 bag of the moment transcends these practical nylon iterations. The ultimate in hands-free luggage, backpacks littered the runway (predominantly in slick leather) as an outfit-enhancing, sporty luxury. Embellished with pearls and in the sweetest sky blue leather at Manish Arora or popping in bright yellow mini versions at Moschino, the backpack is the cheeky little sister of the handbag world. Either play with colour, textures and badges to maximize the bag’s impact (Chanel led the way when it came to letting your slogan-heavy backpack do the talking) or sit at the opposite end of the spectrum with a block colour that merges into your look for an unexpected surprise. It’s a veritable party at the back.