Haute Couture fashion week began with an otherworldly experience, courtesy of Schiaparelli. For most, being the first Maison on the calendar could be daunting. For Schiaparelli, it is the only slot you would expect the show to fill. One of the most highly anticipated shows on the calendar and a coveted ticket, celebrities flock to the FROW to see the whimsical, wonderful creations dreamt up by creative director Daniel Roseberry. For Haute Couture SS24 the creative director sought inspiration from outer space, provoked by Elsa Schiaparelli’s fascination with astrology and all things extraterrestrial, weaving her pastime into timeless House codes.
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Marrying the fantastical nature of the otherworldly with the equally fantastical (and undeniably fabulous) mind of Daniel Roseberry, the collection is a celebration of juxtapositions. It balances the history of the Maison, embedding Easter eggs of recognisable House codes throughout jewellery, shoes and embroidery, including a head-to-toe look with a cut-out keyhole in the centre, with innovation and the avant-garde. Necklaces inspired by electric circuits and gold-leaf exoskeleton-like corsetry meet the iconic S-shaped heels and an intricately embroidered gown inspired by a 1936 design by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí.
It is not only references personal to Elsa Schiaparelli that are found throughout, but also to Daniel Roseberry; iconographies of the designer’s home state of Texas appear through thigh-high reinterpretations of the cowboy boot and silk satin spikes reminiscent of horse braid dressage knots. Take for example the “robot” dress, which is entirely adorned in Swarovski crystal jewels and electronic chips teamed with a minaudière with keyhole detailing and cowboy-inspired mules.
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