Last night saw the debut of Prada’s first Cruise collection in Milan, and as expected from a designer as seasoned and talented as Miuccia Prada, it did not disappoint. The opening looks conveyed a decisively sporty tone, exemplified through sleek parkas and coordinating tracksuits. Next came sweetheart slip dresses that were paired with ribbed knee high socks that gently continued the athleisure theme. These gave way to sharply tailored shirting kept soft and demure with sheer overlays and panels in pretty pastel hues. There were flourishes that continued the narrative of the House’s spring/summer collection too, such as powder pink pyjama suits with swirling floral motifs and flocked marabou trims felt a little more nuanced than the punchy spring patterns and palettes. Sheer negligée-style dresses with scalloped lace trims were embellished with shiny sequins, pailettes and metallic touches. Then in taking it back to more temperamental climes, heavy coats in navy and grey were tightly belted at the waist and worn off the shoulders in a show of femininity, while a flurry of whimsical plisse-pleated dresses in sorbet shades were toughened with black leather belts.
The collection felt quite girly – a notion aided by the feathered headbands, and schoolgirl plaits the models sported as well as the pastel hues and sheer fabrics however the juxtaposing sporty references kept this in check making the garments feel gritty and grounded in a way that only Prada can.