Returning to Our Roots

In the midst of the Raf Simons and Vetements boutiques in downtown Moscow the KM20 vegan eatery boasts ‘the widest range of nut mylks’ in town. Part of the new wave of venues catering to young conscious consumers that shun the meat-and-cheese-heavy ways of the soviet, the café, is the perfect vantage point from which to observe the proliferation of veganism amongst youth worldwide.

From Russia’s flourishing wellness scene to the Middle East, another region known for its meaty cuisine, gastronauts are identifying changes in the eating habits of local teenagers. “I have noticed that Omnia has a much bigger following from Generation Z,” says celebrity Chef Silvena Rowe. “The new generation are much more aware of the benefits of healthy eating which is seen as something that is very cool to do.” And based on her findings, Rowe has adjusted her business strategy accordingly, she is currently in the process of converting her flagship restaurant, Omnia Gourmet into Dubai’s first, entirely vegan space. A smart move perhaps as the largest ever study into the vegan community by Ipsos MORI revealed that there has been a 360% increase in veganism across the UK since 2006, a lifestyle change that is largely driven by teenagers. Tellingly, this shift towards a healthier lifestyle is also spilling over into other areas of consciousness, from fashion to fitness. In 2014 when the Athleisure trend first came to light a study conducted by Piper Jaffray named yoga pants, from Lululemon in particular, as the top performing clothing trend amongst American teens.

But why has veganism, in particular, gained so much traction amongst youth? Veganism, of course, is a very specific way of eating that deplores meat, seafood and dairy including eggs, attracting mixed reactions towards its supposed health benefits and shortfalls. In the past, skeptics and concerned elders may have focused upon the lack of nutrition associated with veganism with teenage girls, in particular, requiring high levels of B vitamins, calcium and iron to develop. But recent years have seen renowned athletes like Mike Tyson and the Venus sisters disprove this notion. They are among the many professionals that credit their vegan-based diet with an increased intake of nutrients and optimal performance. They are also an indicator of veganism’s wider acceptance as a healthy lifestyle.

Undeniably, veganism has heavily revamped its image over the last few years. Previously linked to zealots, today A List leaders like Paul McCartney champion #MeatFreeMondays whilst Beyonce carves out a new niche with her plant-based meal delivery service. When the latter embarked on a 22 day vegan cleanse citing spiritual and mental health benefits as her wellness goals there was, naturally an increase in conversation surrounding this type of diet. “I have become more and more vegan, but occasionally I eat seafood, which makes me ‘seagan’,” says Rowe, who, like the singer, takes a more fluid approach to her food.

And the youth appeal of PETA advocate, Miley Cyrus is also undeniable, the singer who adheres to all aspects of the vegan lifestyle uses social media to bring awareness of her vegan views to the mainstream, “Please consider vegan options because we, as humans have resources”  – one of the many pro-vegan captions shared on Cyrus’ Instagram account. “I really love how Miley stands up for hard causes and her actions follow her words and media posts.” Says Lyz Olko, a fashion designer that uses dead-stock denim and army surplus for her sustainable designs. The designer counts Miley Cyrus, Kylie Jenner and Gwen Stefani among her celebrity clientele and believes that their enviable sense of style helps to communicate their ethical stance to a younger audience.

On the whole Gen Z are regarded as a healthier group than their parents with smoking and drinking rates at an all-time low; they are also the first generation to have used technology their entire lives. As digital natives, teens are just as likely to take food recommendations from a blog or social media, as they are from word-of-mouth. And Rowe credits her own success to social media; her Snapchat account was recently listed among the 30 most influential in the Middle East. Teens make up the majority of her demographic and they use the platform to connect with her to discuss food-related issues like never before. “They are demanding and they take a real interest in our ingredients and sources,” says the Chef.

Perhaps veganism’s teen pull is a backlash against previous trends for meat-heavy paleoism, or a savvy strategy to get more ‘likes’ with selfies replaced by ‘healthies’. Indeed veganism runs the risk of being labeled a food fad, but those within the industry believe it will have a lasting impact. “We think veganism is a lifestyle that’s here to stay,” says Juliet Kaufman, of bestselling vegan cookbook series, Thug Kitchen. “We believe younger people are more concerned about their food and where it comes from…with all the widely accessible information young people have just decided ‘nope, f*ck that’.”

Believing that wellness is not purely the domain of the upper classes and middle aged, expletives and education are all part of the youth draw at Thug Kitchen who pen titles like ‘Thug Kitchen: Eat Like You Give a F*ck’ and categorise themselves as the only website dedicated to ‘verbally abusing you into a healthier diet.’ Whilst they might attract their audience with their offbeat humor and affordable recipes, Kaufman claims that their fans remain loyal for their dishes that include fast-food favourites like burritos reimagined in a meat and dairy-free manner. “Thug Kitchen has challenged people’s ideas of healthy food and we’ve made it more accessible to everyone, especially young people.”

What Rowe and Kaufman have both alluded to is that teen veganism is part of the zeitgeist for renouncing consumerism and displaying consciousness in the processes that surround us. Talking to my own father about his 1960s adoption of vegetarianism as a teenager, he pinpoints a school trip to the slaughterhouse as his motivation. Typically teen trends are driven by a quest for ‘the next big thing’ with their tastes populating spaces that their parents do not understand. At the time his decision was marginalised by his family and labeled an awkward teenage phase. And during the Sixties vegetarians were few and far between, but today a transition like my father’s is more commonplace, made easier by the wealth of literature readily accessible at a click.

From research highlighting the overwhelming physical, ethical and environmental benefits of veganism to community support found on social platforms, the information has been available since the start of the Internet, but today’s teens facilitate its spread. “I learnt a lot from my friend Theo’s ‘gram’,” says Olko who uses Instagram for recipe inspiration and converted from vegetarianism to veganism at the age of 15. “I have a few vegan friends and am very happy to see many people are asking me more questions on how to adopt a plant-based diet.” And whilst Intagram is responsible for making veganism look delicious, it is by no means a reference point when it comes to medical advice. An open platform, the Internet is rife with misinformation, so as with any dietary change the advice of a medical professional is indispensible.

PETA claims that 2016 is the #YearOfTheVegan but there are undoubtedly teens who will simply look to veganism as a means to lose weight, eat fashionably or to garner special attention from waiters. For those who wish to make the full lifestyle shift, the Thug Kitchen Team suggests small changes for meaningful results. “Don’t try to change overnight or you’ll just set yourself up for frustration” says Kaufman. “Instead, try changing your diet a couple days a week until you get the hang of it.” Regardless of motivation, perhaps we can all take a cue from the teens. After all, re-evaluating our food intake and making positive changes towards our health and the environment navigates us towards the one thing we all want – to feel good.