Here in the Middle East, we're well aware of the power of oud. Dark, leathery and somewhat smokey, this potently popular ingredient can prove challenging to wear for those not au fait with its finer points. That’s where Jacques Cavallier Belletrud comes in. Determined to create an oud-based perfume boasting lasting strength without being too overpowering, Louis Vuitton’s master perfumer launched the House’s first ever oud unisex fragrance Ombre Nomade back in 2018, focusing on raw materials that complement both women and men.
Drawing its name from Nomadic desert wanderers and shadows on the sand, today the woody scent is more popular than ever, reflecting the Middle Eastern influences that afford the fragrance its intense, enveloping score. That’s why, in honour of Ramadan, we sat down with the man himself during his visit to Dubai to discuss his family history, his fascinating career path, and why the region will always remain one of his biggest inspirations.
On his relationship with the Middle East...I’ve had a passion for Eastern perfumery for a long time — I fell in love with it when I started visiting Dubai and Saudi Arabia 20 years ago. I remember when my father, who was also a perfumer, visited the Middle East a few decades ago and came home saying the people there knew perfumes better than him. The true root of perfumery is in the East — it’s where perfumes smell like true perfumes, so I’ve always had a deep admiration. When I was very young, women would come to Cannes from the Gulf region, and you could always smell their perfumes before you could see them. These signature scents have always been an inspiration to me.
On the importance of culture...What I love the most about my role at Louis Vuitton is being able to take parts of different cultures and put them in a bottle. We mix French culture with American and Asian, and that’s part of the originality of the Maison. The DNA is based on these journeys. I knew right from the start that I wanted to introduce Arabian perfumery to Louis Vuitton and introduce the whole world to its beauty.
On inclusion...Ombre Nomade is one of our leading perfumes, and while it’s inspired by the Middle East, it’s not just a regional collection. It’s addressed to the world. In fact, the majority of our Ombre Nomade clients are not from the Middle East.
On his love of Oud...At Louis Vuitton I love to create perfumes that evoke emotion within the wearer. When you smell Oud it’s like incense, and it takes you right back to the history of the Middle East. It becomes something more than a perfume — it enters a part of your spirit. That’s why we say it’s mystical, because it’s about connecting with something bigger than ourselves. I’m not saying religion, but at least something that elevates you. It’s like love. There is something mysterious and mystical about love between two people. I love to create that kind of feeling with my perfume, and it’s easier to do that with the influence of Arab perfumes. We also use fruity notes for lightness, while sensualities come from musk and spices. Then there’s the leathery tones which also add an extra level of depth.
The notes we have chosen for the fragrance are very deep and at the same time full of joy. I opted for a dark bottle as I find it more intriguing than a transparent one. It makes the fragrance stand out from the crowd while also adding more dimension.
On his inspirations...All creations begin with an idea, and these usually come from a mix of experiences, be that with materials, people, culture or emotions. Take this morning, for example. I was standing in front of the sea and looking at the Dubai skyline and I became inspired. Even yesterday morning when I was on my way back to my bedroom after breakfast, I stopped and said to my wife: “I have an idea, I have to note it.” I could be inspired by somebody in the street, in the mall, at dinner. I then translate these inspirations into materials and ingredients, and they eventually become a reality.
On his very first memory with fragrance...It was the rosewater that my mother would apply on my face in the morning. I always remember the smell of that rose, and now I use them everywhere throughout my creations.
On keeping it in the family...I was eight or nine years old when I realised I wanted to be a perfumer. My father was a perfumer, my grandfather was a perfumer, my grandfather’s father was a perfumer. My mother was working for one of the greatest perfumers in the world. It was a no-brainer. They would talk about perfumes at lunch and we would just sit and listen. I learnt the language of perfumes as I learnt French. It was quite fascinating to hear my father speaking about the different floral crops each season — it was the best training I could have had. Today my daughter works with me at Louis Vuitton. She will be the fifth generation perfumer of the modern era, and the first woman in the family to become a perfumer, so she has some pressure!
On his greatest critic...That would be my wife, because she always tells me the truth. And myself, of course. I know myself by heart and I know when I’m lying to myself. I can do that for some time, but not for too long. Discover the fragrance
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