Mojeh

Chanel

Aug 23, 2024 | 17 min read

“Fashion changes but style endures”. This musing has never rung truer than when referring to Chanel. Elegant, simplistic and chic, the label has evolved but has never strayed far from its luxuriously simplistic roots. From its first store in 1910 to now operating 310 boutiques worldwide, the designer label has become one of the most influential fashion houses.

The avant-garde and somewhat rebellious approach of Coco Chanel has revolutionised women’s fashion.  Throughout the years, her vision of classifying the modern woman’s wardrobe was perfected and realised. Her undeniable talent and unlikely tale of success have made this fashion matriarch an idealised figure.  

What is Chanel?  Liberty, Simplicity, Practicality 

Chanel is a world-renowned French luxury fashion brand long-known for its unparalleled style. Founded by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, it has become a symbol of sophistication and superior quality, setting the standard for fellow couture boutiques. It comprises ready-to-wear, haute couture, accessories, fragrance and beauty and has solidified itself as a global powerhouse.

In a time where restrictive clothing reigned and stifling corsets were the status quo, Gabrielle “Bonheur” Chanel wished for change. She wished to rid women of voluminous skirts and sartorial stereotypes. Her designs sought to liberate women and become an emblem of female independence and spirit.  Her clothing signalled an end for sharp structures and instead carved a path for subtle elegance and unconfined silhouettes. 

Haute Couture

Chanel HC F24 002a.jpg
Chanel Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024 Collection

Since their burgeoning boutique in Biarritz,  the designer label has gone from strength to strength. Although the culture surrounding Haute Couture has transformed, it remains a way for ateliers to show their unmatched skill and craftsmanship.  From creating bespoke and hand-stitched incomparable pieces to creating enchanting runway experiences, Chanel has represented the highest echelon of fashion. 

The fashion world awaits their haute couture collection with bated breath. The Met Gala annually bears witness to archive pulls or recreations of vintage pieces. The duality of the designer brand is clear - continuously breaking boundaries while honouring the timeless elegance defined by the original creator.

Ready-To-Wear

Chanel
Headgear was the star of the show at the Autumn/Winter 2024 runways

In contrast to Haute Couture, Ready-to-Wear is more accessible. Aimed at a wider audience, it intends to democratise high-quality clothing. Chanel’s ready-to-wear lines often draw inspiration from its deep-seated heritage, while embracing contemporary elements. Be it the famed Tweed suits or a billowing frock, each unique piece is injected with the unmissable aesthetic crafted by the original designer. 

Both the Couture and pret-a-porter collections are showcased biannually in the capital of fashion, Paris.  The SS and AW styles serve as a guiding light for upcoming trends. 

Humble Beginnings To Haute Couture 

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel had a tumultuous and difficult upbringing. Raised in poverty and later shipped to a convent-run orphanage in Aubazine, the odds were seemingly not stacked in her favour. However, as per her famous adage: “My life didn’t please me. So, I created my life”. 

It was in the orphanage that she learned to sew. In 1902, she had her humble beginnings as a seamstress. With the help of Arthur “Boy” Chapel, she opened the millinery that started it all.

The History of Chanel 

1910 - The destined couturiere opened her first hat boutique, Chanel Modes at 21 Rue Cambon in Paris. Her designs quickly caught the attention of the French elite. French actresses of the era donned her work, allowing her reputation to fan out.

1912 - Following her initial success, Gabrielle Coco Chanel opened her first boutique in Deauville. In 1913, she expanded her range to include a "sportswear collection”. The material jersey has previously been reserved for men’s clothing. It swiftly revolutionised fashion and women’s approach to their forms. The suppleness and fluidity of jersey in women’s clothing were unheard of from a mobility and practicality standpoint. She once stated, “My fortune is built on that old jersey that I had to put on. Just because I was cold in Deauville.”

1915 - Mademoiselle Chanel launched her Couture boutique in Biarritz and solidified her position as a leading fashion designer. Powered by 300 employees, the brand’s inaugural Haute Couture collection was crafted. 

1918 - Coco purchased the building at 31 Rue de Cambon, Paris. The building remains central to the fashion House to this day, comprising ateliers, boutiques and salons. Here, she set about creating and innovating the future of female fashion, spurred on by the capital of fashion itself.  

1921 - The instantly iconic Chanel No 5 was created. The presentation and enticing composition of the scent solidified it as the poster fragrance for sophistication and luxury. Unlike the single-note floral perfumes of the era, it offered a robust and complex alternative.

1926 - The Little Black Dress was invented and splayed on the pages of Vogue magazine. Not quite evening wear or day wear, its multifaceted monochrome appeal made it accessible to all classes of women.

1939 - Chanel closed the doors of her boutique following the outbreak of WWII.

Circa 1950 - At the age of 70, she made a resounding return to the fashion scene. Though her first few pieces received scathing and less-than-complimentary reviews, her feminine and form-defying designs soon won the hearts of fashionistas and critics alike.

1954 - The Tweed Suit is released to the masses and would become an indelible and ever-evolving piece in their line.

1955 - The 2.55, a cornerstone accessory of the brand’s selection, was designed. The style serves as the foundation for the subsequent handbags.

1956 - The world was introduced to two-toned pumps and our footwear has never been the same since. 

1971- The beloved designer passed away on January 10th, 1971. Under the artful direction of Karl Lagerfeld, the Maison continued to keep the spirit of Coco Chanel’s vision alive. In 1983, he launched a wildly successful collection of jewel-encrusted watches and cosmetics. Currently, Virgine Viard is the creative director of the fashion giant.

Chanel Logo & Brand 

Just like Chanel’s unwavering air of sophistication, the logo has remained untouched. The classic interlocking CCs have become an integral part of the brand’s image and exude superiority. 

The eponymous design was designed by Coco herself.  While the logo is simplistic in design, it highlights the importance and influence of symbolism. The double-C will forever connect her to the brand and ensure her legacy will endure. It is often thought to give a nod to her inauspicious upbringing. The stained glass windows of the orphanage where she grew up have been thought to have inspired the interlinked logo.

Changing The Course of Fashion

Shocking the industry with her innovative and liberating garments, the virtuous designer was resolute in altering women’s fashion. Many of her styles have released women from constraints -both metaphorically and stylistically speaking- and have cemented their place in fashion’s Hall of Fame. 

Popularising Women’s Pants

Emancipation through fashion was the keystone of the legendary designer’s process. While she didn’t invent trousers, she certainly popularised them post-WW1. Her defiance of societal norms can be seen when she began donning “beach pyjamas”.  Inspired by the practical cut of sailor’s trousers, they were comfortable and form-freeing. A few eyebrows were raised when this look was unveiled, due to the pyjama's reputation as an intimate garment. 

The lines between private and public dress were challenged as soon the social elite were flocking to buy their very own.

Chic Sea Wear? Yes, please.

Nautical wear indeed had been sported by French sailors since the 19th century. Yet, it was once again Gabrielle Chanel who transformed the concept of Mariniere. 

During a vacation on the French Riviera, she made note of the sailor’s blue and white striped shirts. She reworked the Breton style with jersey when compiling her nautical collection in 1917 and finished the look off with thick belts. A far cry from the excessively lavish styles of the Belle Epoque, it became a crowd favourite. 

Little Black Dress - Where Would We Be Without It?

Until Coco entered the scene, the colour black was strictly synonymous with mourning and service uniforms. However, for this fashionista, it was the epitome of modernisation and refinement. The Little Black Dress (LBD) was born. Almost a century later, it still holds its rightful place in every woman’s closet. Dubbed the “Ford of Fashion”, it would become recognised for its transformative and revolutionary characteristics. 

The Chanel Suit - The Birth of a Legend

Although the Chanel Tweed Suit was first introduced in 1925, it wasn’t presented to the world until 1954. Akin to jersey, tweed was a fabric used for menswear. Enthralled by a style that prioritised comfort and movement, this creation was another garment that freed women from the conventional norms. With a delicate approach at the core, the traditionally coarse Scottish tweed was reworked. By combining fibres of wool, cotton and silk, the wearer was offered a supply and more freeing garment. The cardigan cut became the preferred choice of many of the epoch’s elite such as Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy and Princess Grace of Monaco.

The One, The Only, The 2.55 Bag

Chanel clp F24 093 (1).jpg
The 2.55 bag at the RTW AW24 runway

Another design that has become an enduring symbol of the brand’s lasting popularity is the 2.55 Chanel bag. The design may seem commonplace in our society -although the price tag is decidedly not- but in 1955, it was unlike anything previously produced. How did it come to be? The designer was simply tired of hauling her purses in her hand and constantly losing them. She added the era-defining chain straps to carry them over her shoulder and the rest is history. The quilted handbag still adheres to Coco’s original instructions, often organised in a chevron or diamond pattern.  The riding-coat-inspired design adds a well-rounded outline to the handbag, while its classic Mademoiselle turn-lock has become a defining feature.  Just like then,  these handbags have become the pinnacle of practicality and poise. Its compartmentalised interior allows you to see and find contents at a glance because isn’t endless rummaging just the worst?

Two-Toned Slingbacks - Head To Toe Style

After redefining silhouettes and accessories, it only made sense that Coco would set her sights on another crucial aspect: footwear. Ever the visionary, Gabrielle wanted to create the perfect pair of pumps. Despite being seen wearing the two-toned style in the 1920s, her creation didn’t reach the market until 1957. Her aim was to forge shoes that abandoned discomfort and promoted movement. As customary, detail was key: the beige shade elongated their shape while the black toe scuffs prevented the slingbacks from visible scuffing. The 5cm heel added stability and an element of style while the elasticated strap ensured ease of movement. 

The pump garnered such interest that further toe-cap variations were designed in navy, brown and gold. Multiple versions of this two-toned show-stopper have been replicated across various styles such as ballet flats, espadrilles and Mary Janes. 

Must-have Chanel beauty products and accessories

Since its inception, Chanel has since expanded to dominate and shape many tenets* of the fashion industry. The natural progression to cosmetics is a testament to their desire to provide a luxurious experience. With lipsticks designed to boost confidence and skincare products to smooth and soothe, they offer a wide variety for different skin types and occasions. 

Wristwear has also been added to their artistic arsenal. Starting with the pioneering PREMIERE, their line has expanded to include J12, BOY FRIEND and Code COCO.

Classic Flap Bag

Often used interchangeably with the 2.55, the Chanel classic flap bag is another iteration of the original. However, astute Haute Couture connoisseurs can note the difference.  A classic flap bag displays the CC turn-lock closure created by the Keiser of fashion (aka Karl Lagerfeld) along with the leather interwoven chain strap.

The bag is available in four classic colours: beige, red, black and white. While these block colours serve as the tonal foundation for the French design house, each season welcomes exciting and distinctive shades. Ombré, pastel, metallics, irisdescent - you name it. 

The Tweed Jacket 

Firm in her belief that her lover’s clothing - Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor, II Duke of Westminister - was more comfortable than the pre-war female options available, the tweed suit was born. Empowering, sophisticated and alluring, it has graced boardrooms, red carpets, talk show couches and more. 

It has yet to go out of fashion and it certainly doesn’t show any signs of slowing down.

The Boy Bag

Titled after the love of Gabrielle’s life, the Boy Bag represents both her boyish spirit and love for one man. “Boy” Capel was a source of inspiration for many of her designs and would then go on to inspire Lagerfeld to create this style.

While the sizes vary each season, the Chanel boy bag has been available in mini, small, old medium, new medium, large and XL. It is considered a contemporary alternative to the cult Flap bag and 2.55. 

The J12 Watch 

Launched in 1999, the J12 was considered revolutionary in its own right. Crafted with elegance and durability at its core, it was designed to be an outstanding sports watch. The unisex watch uses black, white and titanium ceramic. Known for its sleek and futuristic style, the black and white versions have proven to be eminently popular. 

Iconic Scents for Women

Chanel fragrances encase the energy of the women who wear them in a bottle: luminous, bold and defiant. There have been many luscious aromas such as Chanel Gabrielle, Chanel Allure, Chanel Chance Eau Tendre and Chanel Coco Noir

Perhaps the two most desired perfumes are Chanel No 5 and Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.

Chanel No 5

The Maison’s first and undeniably most legendary scent was created by the perfumer Ernest Beaux. Originally, he concocted 10 samples for Gabrielle to choose from. She settled on No 5 and thus an olfactory work of art was born.

Known for its unique and potent floral scent, it is composed of May rose, bourbon vanilla, jasmine and sandalwood, creating an instantly recognisable sillage. However, its so-called “abstract” aldehyde formula has remained shrouded in secrecy to date.

The alluring scent is not the only thing contributing to its success; the bottle design was also a differentiating factor. Standing apart from the flamboyant bottles of the 1920s, Coco opted for simplicity. A masculine input is evident here as many say that it is reminiscent of a hip flash or a male fragrance bottle. The diamond-shaped stopper is an homage to Place Vendome, a source of inspiration for the fashion matriarch.

Chanel No. 5 has continued to be a bestselling fragrance and has been beloved by a pantheon of celebrities such as the Queen and Marilyn Monroe.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle is a perfume thought to encapsulate the young Gabrielle herself: vibrant, daring and fresh in character. With notes of orange, rose, jasmine and patchouli, it evokes a liberated spirit. 

Iconic Colognes for Men

Although their collection of men’s cologne is not as extensive, it is nonetheless powerful and distinctive. Chanel’s Egoiste has been coveted since the 1990s and blends to form the perfect marriage of mahogany and rosewood. Additionally, Chanel Antaeus and Chanel Pour Monsieur are equally as popular. 

Chanel Bleu de Chanel

Laced with sandalwood and cedar, Blue de Chanel is a rich and woody blend that invigorates the senses but never overpowers.

Chanel Allure Homme Sport

The perfect blend of land and sea, Allure Homme Sport has been hailed as an olfactory delight. 

Chanel Beauty Products To Add To Your Wish List

These coveted products have become a must-have for every makeup bag. Offering long-lasting foundation and rouge hues that encapsulate French chic, Chanel beauty is an industry favourite. Here are some examples of their most-desired products to date.

Chanel Les Beiges  Healthy Glow Foundation

Lightweight coverage, dewy finish and blurs the appearance of pores? Say no more. This natural-looking foundation gives the impression of sun-kissed skin and is available in more than 35 shades.

Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Nuit Blanche

We’ve seen it on Margot Robbie. Now, we want to emulate that.

Like its moniker, it has a velvety smooth texture and avoids that dreaded chalky feeling. Its 8 hues leave lips feeling luscious and vibrant, and remain pout-perfect whatever the situation.

Chanel Inimitable Waterproof Mascara

A mascara that does it all - volume, length, curl and water resistance. The expert formula and intentionally designed brush meld to provide a multi-dimensional effect.

Chanel Skincare - Your Skin Will Thank You

Applying innovative formulas and industry expertise, their skincare offerings promise smooth features and reduced appearance of fine lines.

Chanel N1

The Chanel N1 range includes a revitalising cream, serum, eye serum and body cream, among many others. 

Chanel CC Cream 

Like your everyday BB cream but with the added touch of luxury. The CC cream unifies, moisturises, and protects the skin while providing day-long coverage. 

Where Can I Buy Chanel beauty products?

If you’re looking for your favourite Chanel beauty bits in UAE, Qatar or Switzerland, look no further. We’ve found the stores that stock your must-have products.

In the United Arab Emirates

There are two main locations to shop for Chanel in the UAE.

Shop Chanel In Dubai: 

Dubai Mall

Mall of the Emirates

Shop Chanel In Abu Dhabi:

Galleria Al Maryah Island

Yas Mall

In Qatar

Chanel is available for purchase in Qatar in the following locations:

In Doha:

Place Vendome Mall

Lagoona Mall

Marassi Galleria Mall

Online

If you are unable to visit any of the previously mentioned locations, not to worry. Simply visit the online store at https://www.chanel.com/us/ to browse the official collection at your leisure.

Celebrities That Can’t Get Enough Of Chanel

Since Coco’s original boutique in 1912, celebrities have long championed her work. 

Kristen Stewart

On top of featuring in many promotional campaigns, house ambassador Kristen Stewart has stunned at red-carpet events in Chanel. Most recently, she attended the Sundance Film Festival and placed her own contemporary twist on a classic tweed set.

Margot Robbie

Since becoming an ambassador in 2018, Margot Robbie has spearheaded the campaign for Chanel’s Rouge  Allure Velvet Nuit Blanche. If you’ve seen the most recent Barbie movie, you’ll have noticed the eye-catching Chanel yellow tweed suit and vintage pink blazer. 

Keira Knightley

Many may remember Keira Knightley as the face of Coco Mademoiselle. Her classic beauty has been featured in the many variations of the scent’s campaigns. Keira characterises the perfect brand ambassador as she wore an ethereal white Chanel dress on her wedding day!

Camilla Morrone

Similar to the Camilla Morrone, the label exudes effortless elegance. The timelessness of the French house is what captivated her originally and continues to do so.

Lily-Rose Depp

From storming the runway in 2016 and 2017 to combining her casual with Chanel’s chic, Lily-Rose Depp has exhibited the multitudes of the beloved brand.

Chanel has constantly defined and redefined what style truly means. Comfort and practicality were at the core of her vision, allowing the modern woman to work, move and live, all the while looking effortlessly chic. Her inspirational designs such as the 2.55, LBD and Chanel suit have left an immeasurable mark on the fashion industry. So strong remains her influence, that her original designs are still referenced and reworked.

Accessories, fragrance and beauty have become an inextricable part of the label’s DNA, highlighting the expertise and dedication of the team. The brand has characterised elegance for more than a century and it doesn’t seem to be stopping any time soon. 

Coco Chanel’s Most Memorable Quotes:

"In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different."

"Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman."

"Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening."

"Fashion has two purposes: comfort and love. Beauty comes when fashion succeeds."

"Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance."