From a cosy hideaway and a dinner with a difference to a fancy spot in the heart of Dubai, show your love this weekend for Valentine’s Day by indulging in some culinary treats.
Enigma
Vibe: A culinary guessing game of the highest order, Enigma changes its dining concept and world-class chef every three months, starting with Spanish master, the three Michelin starred Quique Dacosta, who presents Vanguard.
Food: Entering Enigma’s minimal dining room at the Palazzo Versace Dubai is to begin a journey that is about much more than food. In keeping with the avant garde morsels served by Quique Dacosta (of El Poblet, Vuelve Carolina, Mercatbar and Quique Dacosta restaurants in Spain, the latter filling the substantial gap left by El Bulli), theatricality and artistry are as important as taste. Twelve courses combine special effects such as parmesan-filled edible pebbles, crisply smoked ‘charcoal’ and a mist-filled table garden inspired by a young Dacosta’s woodland journey to school. Vanguard is fast-paced and full of surprises: style meets substance with happy abandon. Events take an even more mystical turn as the lights dim and a palate cleanser borne on LED crystal plates is served by Toro-masked waiters with a dramatic flourish. Way more than simply dinner, Dacosta is a magician and Vanguard is not to missed.
Enigma, Palazzo Versace Dubai, ground floor west wing
Open 7.30-10.30pm, Monday-Saturday, +971 (0)4 556 8888
Bistrot Bagatelle
Vibe: ‘South of France inspired, New York infused’, Bistrot Bagatelle, modeled on a Parisian apartment, is a sociable sharing concept that feels like a ready-made classic.
Food: From Manhattan’s meatpacking district to Dubai, Bistrot Bagatelle’s menu is filled with well-executed Mediterranean dishes that make it impossible to under-order, while its eclectic interiors and soulful playlist make it impossible to leave before the night is out. Yellow fin tuna tartare served with creamy avocado and soy lime dressing is citrusy, light and beautifully off-set by its must-order culinary opposite: a Fior Di’latte pizza with black truffle paste that we continued to consume long after we should have had enough. The wagyu striploin served with unapologetic French fries and peppercorn sauce is as tender as expected and the roasted prawns with chanterelles and smoked corn purée is more than an equal match. Room for dessert? Profiteroles will call, filled with salted caramel cream and topped with warm chocolate sauce. Chic comfort food at its finest.
Bistrot Bagatelle, Fairmont Dubai, 1st floor
Open 8pm-late, +971 (0)4 354 5035
Jean-Georges Kitchen
Vibe: The famed French chef brings together all of his passions – food, architecture, travel and the exotics of Asia – under one calm and very cool roof at the Four Seasons Dubai.
Food: Eating at Jean-Georges is a challenge for the taste buds, but a rather delicious one. Under the direction of Michelin star chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten – who began his career in France before taking up positions in Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong – it’s like going on a light culinary tour from Europe to Asia. Starters include sushi on small pockets of deep fried rice, and buffalo mozzarella infused with fruit and enjoyed with soft sour dough. The Asian influence is rife, but what makes the JG Kitchen exceptional is its ability to showcase diversity through a mix of continents while still remaining focused and controlled when it comes to what’s actually on your plate. For our mains, sea bass with artichoke heart and a mushroom-yuzu vinaigrette was enjoyed next to home made tagliatelle with black truffles. The two opposing dishes melded zesty with creamy but somehow sat perfectly next to one and another with the sea bass sticking a fresh cord in between the denser Italian dish. And finally, the famous Jean-Georges desserts, which include the salted caramel ice cream sundae with candied peanuts and popcorn. If you’ve not tried it for yourself yet you’ve definitely heard about it. Despite being full to the brim after a satisfying three-course meal, it’s the kind of sweet treat that you definitely don’t leave behind.
Jean-Georges Kitchen Dubai, Four Seasons Resort, Dubai.
The Jean-Georges Valentine’s Day menu will be served a la carte on Sunday 14 February, +971 4 3436118.
