For over 25 years, Atelier VM, founded in Milan by Marta Caffarelli and Viola Naj Oleari, has been quietly revolutionising the world of jewellery. As they celebrate the 10th anniversary of L’Essenziale, their most iconic piece, the founders reflect on a journey that has not only transformed the jewellery industry but also nurtured a personal, lasting connection with each of their wearers.
L’Essenziale is a unique piece of jewellery welded directly onto the wrist, forging an unbreakable bond. As Marta explains, this milestone is not solely about the brand but about the countless individuals who have woven their stories into Atelier VM’s ever-lasting designs: “Ten years ago, we sensed that it was something powerful, but we certainly could not have imagined what later came to pass... Without even realising it, we invented a new product category.”
The journey to L’Essenziale began with a simple yet heartfelt vision: to create jewellery that captures memories and emotions, holding them in place. Viola shares how the concept was born from an intimate need to preserve moments: “L'Essenziale was born in 2014 out of the urgency to stop a memory, an intimate moment so as not to let it fade away.” This heartfelt vision led to a piece designed to stay with the wearer, both physically and emotionally, pushing the boundaries of what jewellery could represent.
What sets Atelier VM apart is its philosophy of "romantic minimalism." Viola explains that for them, minimalism isn’t about stripping things back for the sake of it but about focusing on what’s most essential: “Our jewellery enhances individual light, emphasising intimacy and unostentatious minimalism... transforming materials into emotions, memories, seasons, people.”
Personal experiences and travels have also deeply influenced their collections. Viola recalls an unforgettable trip to India that inspired one of their standout pieces, the Tappabuchi earring: “I met a little girl sitting with her mother outside at the foot of a temple. The little girl was wearing fragments, scraps of recovered gold, inserted into the holes of her earlobes as ornaments.” Moments like these have shaped Atelier VM’s jewellery, infusing each piece with a unique story.
Another defining element of Atelier VM is the personalised touch they offer through their Pensaci Tu service, allowing customers to engrave words or phrases onto their pieces. Marta fondly recalls how the idea was born on a holiday with their young children: “We had brought some coloured leather, a small hammer and some letters, and we asked people to tell us a word that we would then engrave on the bracelet... The bracelets were a big hit with friends and tourists alike.” What started as a playful experiment has evolved into one of the brand's most cherished services.
Despite their success, Marta and Viola haven’t been immune to the challenges of running a business - financial crises, wars and pandemics have all impacted them. Yet, these obstacles have only driven their creativity forward. “Crises force you to observe, they change the rules, and you have to be reactive, ready to leave something behind to embrace the new, to transform,” says Marta. This resilience led to the creation of new innovations, including their latest Bloom earring collection, made from a patented 3kt gold alloy.
Looking to the future, Atelier VM is focused on continuing to grow while staying true to its core values. Marta highlights the importance of remaining human in the face of expansion: “Expanding while remaining human is the most desirable dream.” With plans to further engage with markets like the Middle East, and to continue innovating in design and materials, Atelier VM shows no signs of slowing down.
Viola sums up the brand's journey and their future beautifully: “This is only the beginning of a long journey, in which collections will be created in response to the needs of everyday life and markets.”
