Beloved fashion figure Daisy Fellowes, daughter of Duke Decazes and sewing machine heiress to the Singer fortune, commissioned from Cartier the handsome Hindu Necklace in 1936. A truly resplendent creation, the piece was crafted from an elaborate string of rubies, emeralds and briolette-cut sapphires, as well as fluted and melon-scooped beads. The French socialite famously wore the choker to what was later dubbed ‘The Ball of the Century’; a lavish gathering hosted by eccentric multi-millionaire art collector Charles de Beistegui at Venice’s grandiose Palazzo Labia in 1951.
Fellowes’s Hindu necklace resurrected the upper-class elite’s interest in audacious floral motifs, reminiscent of the formidable Mughal Empire that had ruled over northern India until the 18th Century. Precious gems, handpicked for their antiquity, personality and (above all) striking beauty, had long been carefully worked by highly-skilled Indian artisans, who utilised unique techniques in jewellery design and relief cutting. Cartier, inspirited by this redoubtable dynasty, took inspiration from the Mughal’s adventurous colour combinations, which continue to inspire the Maison’s high jewellery collections today.
The insatiable attraction and comforting nostalgia that surrounds antique jewellery has long been understood and catered to. The Rajasthan Necklace, which was unveiled last year, is an example of the Hindu choker’s long-lasting significance. The latest addition to Cartier’s instantly recognisable Tutti Frutti collection, which was first popularised in 1901 when the Maison’s founder designed a multi-hued pendant for Queen Alexandra of England, the Rajasthan proudly showcases an awe-inspiring 136.98-carat carved Colombian emerald, which is intricately engraved with an astonishingly elaborate efflorescent motif.
After all, heritage jewellery is weighted in meaning and, more often than not, there’s a sentimental reason behind why one desires a particular piece. A universal form of adornment, each creation has been heartily infused with the emotional life of its cherished predecessor and, subsequently, the remodelling of family jewels is fast becoming a growing trend for the modern woman. High jewellery heirlooms and gemstones are increasingly being refitted into contemporary, bespoke pieces that can be passed on through the generations.
Isabella Daniels is the first of a third generation to join her family’s business, luxury jeweller Yoko London. “Often, people inherit a special piece of jewellery through a family member,” she tells MOJEH. “While the piece is beautiful, it might not suit the particular style of the person who has inherited it. Consequently, the piece can sit in a safe without being worn for years. We’ve had cases with clients in similar situations to this, where the piece holds great sentimental and emotional value.”
Independent Parisian jeweller and experienced gemmologist Lydia Courteille agrees. “I think it’s a pleasure to be able to use stones that you’ve had in your family for a long time,” she concurs. “It’s a great shame to leave pieces in your vault without getting any use out of them. By remodelling heirloom jewellery, you’re able to give a second life to pieces that belonged to your ancestors.”
