There were many High Jewellery stars of Paris Haute Couture Week, we pay particular attention to Dior...
Every year in early July, Paris hosts the very small population of the world with the disposable income to afford the lavish creations made by the haute couture and haute joaillerie houses. The esteemed Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode (Fédération Française de la Couture for short) has the power of decision over which houses gain the official sanction of membership and, thus, the right to appear on the calendar. Only since 2011 have haute joaillerie houses been acknowledged by the Fédération and, in 2015, Chopard and De Beers join just eight other jewellers as official haute joaillerie members. Even so, the jewellers are not listed with specific show times on the couture week calendar.
One standout collection came from Christian Dior. A play-off between strong materials and a delicate silk ribbon were at the forefront of Dior's Soie Dior collection – a total of 53, one-of-a-kind pieces. A direct inspiration from haute couture, the silk ribbon has been translated into jewellery. Twisting and turning, the ribbon takes shape across an array of exquisite pieces. With rivers of diamonds, pink sapphires set in gold and frothy taffeta in yellow sapphires, it has the embellishments of couture wrought in precious minerals. The collection plays host to a spectacular colour combination with bursts of bright hues. The Smock Diamant Jaune bracelet is a prime example. Fusing yellow, white and burnt-orange (although they appear light brown) diamonds together, they flow together like a river in sweeping meanders. It’s an unusual colour combination that works perfectly. Or – the Tresse Émeraude ring with yellow diamonds, bright green emeralds, bold sapphires and Paraiba-type tourmalines. Like three stripes on a ribbon, they blend like the ever-changing colour palette of the ocean. Christian Dior’s creative director Victoire de Castellane weaves the luxurious intricacy of haute couture fabrics into the framework of each and every creation. "When you play with a ribbon, it's instinctive and ephemeral, and I wanted to keep that notion of freedom," explains de Castellane. This idea of freedom is captured and reimagined in every design.
All of them have a remarkable fluidity, movement and lightness, despite being executed in hard metal and stones…Rippling, twirling and winding around fingers like the fabrics on a seamstresses’ table, the silk ribbon takes many forms. Undulating over rubies, tourmalines, emeralds and diamonds. The standout piece has to be the Dénoué necklace in white and yellow gold with diamonds, sapphire and emeralds. Evoking the look of a just untied ribbon that has somehow trapped a huge sapphire between its ends and uncurls a river of diamonds and emeralds. It only further showcases the sheer level of true craftsmanship synonymous with the house.
You can read the article in full from our J&W Edition out now.
