There was a sombre mood meshed across the SS15 collections. As it drifted from designer to designer and crossed continent to continent, it became clear: Haute Couture had entered a new world. As we embark upon AW15, we take a look at what to expect in Paris this season.
By Susan Devaney
Giambattista Valli, Haute Couture SS15.
Givenchy
From Kendall Jenner to Naomi Campbell, Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci already gave us a sneak peek of things to come during his menswear show in Paris earlier this month. Calling them his ‘bad girls’, he sent 11 couture looks down the runway. Adorned in rugged denim and textured overalls, Tisci has already told us his theme: prison and workwear.
Chanel
Fragile flower appliqué danced across Fifties style skirts, colourful wool beanies comforted many a model’s head and bared midriffs were commonplace – but that was last season. What will Karl bring to the table this time around? Our guess is as good as any, but one thing is for certain: style and substance always go hand-in-hand for Chanel.
Chanel, Haute Couture SS15.
Christian Dior
Citing iconic popstar David Bowie as his main source of inspiration, Raf Simons’ vision was firmly focused on freedom and change for SS15. With psychedelic patterns forming a strong silhouette, jumpsuits clung to the entire body in lycra. His collection drifted from the past to the future, back and forth like a swinging pendulum. The question is: will he still be playing with plastic?
Christian Dior, Haute Couture SS15.
Valentino
Many of the pieces took a distinctive Russian influence from the artwork of Marc Chagall with heavily embroidered fabrics in richly decadent colours and fabrics for SS15. Moving from soft tulle to smooth velvet, textured pieces were streamlined. We hope designers Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri will (once again) incorporate a sense of historicism for AW15.
Valentino, Haute Couture SS15.
Last season designers spoke of worldly visions and thoughts, couture crossed continents and issues that matter. A sense of sadness was reflected from many a collection as they spoke of generating a sense of hope for the future. Will this still be plaguing their minds for AW15? We’ll soon see.
