Under Construction

Would you ditch your staple skinny jeans for an original fit? As more women start to make the switch, we take a closer look at the rising trend of 2016. 

Freedom. That’s what women wanted from a pair of jeans. Think Thelma and Louise taking on the highway, decked out in high-waisted Levi’s and motif tees (and obligatory branded leather cowboy boots) or Jane Birkin in sky blue versions and a plain white cotton t-shirt. Understatedly cool. The original denim dream consisted of rigid, 100 per cent cotton denim – no lycra, no stretch. Since Kate Moss donned her stretchy spray-on skinnies over a decade ago, women briskly turned their backs on the once-loved androgynous style. So quickly did they make their way up to the top of the denim charts that we lost sight of real denim? Instead, we embraced the skinny for what it was – an imposter, but one that created the likeable illusion of a lean figure for all.

However, a proper pair of jeans can be a friend for life. How many pairs of skinnies have you loved and lost throughout the past decade? “The best benefit of a pair of non-stretch jeans is that they’re built to last and they’ll improve along the way. A good pair of real jeans will be with you for life – the odd rip and patch only enhances its character, which is a rare thing in modern day fashion,” says Samuel Trotman, Denim Editor at WGSN. “While a pair of rigid, unwashed jeans may be a tough thing to get used to after years of elastane stretch against your skin, the rewards will be worth it once you’ve given them their six-month gracing period (with no wash).” Yeah, that’s right, true denim needs to be broken in. But, the rewards will be fruitful when they’ve moulded to your shape, and achieved their ‘hold’ (a.k.a a pert-looking behind). “One thing every denim lover says they love about their jeans is how they mould to you and tell a story through the fades. You can only achieve this through breaking in a raw pair of jeans. If you’re not into 100 per cent cotton non-stretch, there are comfort stretch raw fabrics on the market that will give you an added bit of ease before you commit to the real deal,” says Sam.

What’s the fit to wear now? “Women are looking for those truly authentic looking jeans, but with a contemporary look and fit. Think hip-hugging, high-rise fits with hems cropped above the ankle or slim-fits that have been opened up at the hem to create a modern micro kick flare,” advises Sam. A daily dose of inspiration is constantly streaming on social media channels, with hashtags like #janebirkindaily, #levis and #debbieharry generating millions of hits, especially after the summer music festivals taking place across the world. It’s evident that we’re turning to long-standing style icons for encouragement, and dependable, old-school brands like Levi’s and Wrangler for a good fit. Do you remember Debbie Harry’s beloved stone-washed Levi’s 505s? We may be delving into sartorial archives, but this new denim appreciation is a completely fresh approach. Denim is being deconstructed for 2016 thanks to emerging labels. The real denim revolution happening now is not simply about adopting a throwback look, it’s fashion’s youth who are leading the pack. Designer Demna Gvasalia (a Maison Martin Margiela alumnus and newly appointed creative director of Balenciaga) started the cult Parisian label Vetements (it translates to ‘clothing’ in French) to go against the old in creating the new. In doing so, they’ve created one of the most in demand pair of jeans of the season. “We founded Vetements because we simply wanted to make clothes for our friends, girls we know. It’s a brand that makes clothes, inspired by clothes. There are no seasonal themes, we always work with the existing wardrobe and every season try to give the garments we like a new shape, concept and frame,” Gvasalia told MOJEH in August last year. Within days of being stocked by luxury online retail site Net-A-Porter, Vetements’s reworked vintage jeans were sold out, and at around AED4,000 a pair –that’s a heavy price tag for denim. “This is where brands like Vetements, Redone and Aries are capturing the market. Each of the styles have that nostalgic feel, but with an idiosyncratic, asymmetric, DIY finish that feels completely fresh in today’s saturated denim market,” says WGSN’s Sam. Aries, a London-based label, has garnered a whole host of young fans (who’ve probably never previously owned a pair of proper denim jeans) by sticking to simple cuts and delightful patches. Their ‘Lilly style’ is apparently still produced in a mill using pebbles to stonewash the denim. Does it get more authentic than that? But they’re not the only ones.“Other brands to look out for are MiH, Simon Miller and Brock Collections – they’re also hitting the trend with their authentic styles,” Sam concludes.

There’s a strong rock ‘n’ roll attitude to the emerging names and the women who are already tackling the new trend head on. During fashion week season, throughout the months of February and March, street style stars took on the look with aplomb. From cropped cuts with distressed hems to high-waisted silhouettes in a series of blue shades, it was obvious that jeans are taking on a new shape for the future. “The women that are adopting the raw jean, archival look, I think are tapping into a more lifestyle driven trend: cCring where things are made, by whom and how. It’s mostly the Millennials who are getting in on this vibe. And yes, personally I think this will mean a long-term lifestyle shift, not a quick flash trend,” says Amy Leverton of Denim Dudes. Like the rest of the buying habits of consumers across the fashion industry, attentions are turning to ethics and commercialisation. “Women are starting to care more where their denim comes from and are going back to a more archival denim look…My thoughts are that we are coming into a long phase of ‘being yourself’ of wearing what you want to wear and being true to yourself. That makes it harder for brands because they are trying to be everything to everybody, but for consumers, it means less rules,” says Amy.

We’re welcoming less rules, and looking for the personal touch instead. Before you start to wear in your brand new pair of Levi’s, the brand is now offering a bespoke service to help you get the perfect fit, tailoring a brand new pair of jeans to your exact body shape. “We will be launching a campaign a bit later in the year which talks to the 501 fit and Levi’s being the original blue jean,” says Simone Fichtl, Brand Manager for Levi’s in Africa and the Middle East. But are consumers searching for something even more personal? “Buying from a small, artisanal brand is far more rewarding because the brand is small, they can give you the personal touch. Recently, I bought unisex jeans from a guy called Evan Kinori in San Francisco. I went to visit his studio, talked with him and hung out for like four hours,” says Amy. “There’s a lot of big brands out there I adore but you simply cannot say the same when you buy something from a chain store.”

With celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Amber Heard and Caroline de Maigret achieving the new look with ease, this boy-fit denim is one for everyone to give a go – and why not? If it means we’re contentiously looking for jeans that are built to last and love for a long time, it can only be a (really) good thing, as we take back that lived-in and locked-in feeling. Unlike our slimming skinnies, in a decade’s time from now, we’ll still feel the freedom of our love-worn original fit.