It’s a strange time for the Pre-Fall world. While, mainly due to time pressures, fewer designers are showcasing these transitional collections than ever before (notable absences this year include Rabanne, Proenza Schouler, Bach Mai and Prabal Gurung), their popularity among both retailers and luxury fashion fans remains undisputed. Thankfully plenty of the industry’s biggest names are still giving the people what they want — collections that induce wardrobe envy — with Pre-Fall 24 drops serving up a strong focus on everyday basics that function as wardrobe building blocks. Nowhere is this more evident than in the slew of divine denim that has underpinned the season. “Denim will always have ‘cool girl’ appeal,” Sinead Cutt, style director at The Outnet tells MOJEH. “Season after season, and in whatever new iteration, it continues to give a look an effortless edge. The durability of the fabric also appeals to designers as it can create oversized silhouettes, as seen for Pre-Fall at the likes of Stella McCartney and Balenciaga.”
This is high fashion, however, so we aren’t talking about your average pair of skinny jeans. First up, there was plenty of surface interest including laser effects, special washes, prints and jacquards, particularly over at Diesel where denim has always reigned supreme. Here Glenn Martens layered bonded denim over unbonded and then baked it, giving it a ‘leathery’ look. Ganni, on the other hand, opted for a floral stencil print on a mid-toned wash, while we’re still swooning over Erdem Moralıoğlu’s dark blue denim coat which came emblazoned with a conspicuously-placed print of a flower.
“The most visible wash for the season is indigo, a shade that keeps your look feeling chic and less casual,” adds Sinead. In fact, for Pre-Fall 24, denim has definitely had a more glamourous makeover in terms of both finishes and pairings. “We’ve seen baggy-legged jeans coupled with rhinestone pieces at Gucci that made an evening look instantly cool, while at Balmain, acid wash baggy jeans were worn with sharp, pastel blazers or chic twin sets. This season, denim apparel gives the ‘dress down’ effect when worn with sharper pieces for an evening look.”
Indeed, the key denim piece for the season is the super wide leg jean, which came worn belted at Valentino and Victoria Beckham, and styled with pointy flats. The aforementioned Balmain pair came complete with a rolled cuff in a vintage wash with a palm tree print in white, teamed stylishly with a tailored blazer in peach with seafoam coloured collar and cuffs, while over at Stella McCartney we were treated to an overly-long style in a stone wash worn under a chunky cable knit sweater in sky blue and grey. And not forgetting MM6 and Heikki Salonen’s stonewashed jeans with their chic crinkled finish.
“Designers have also embraced denim ready-to-wear, including the boxy jackets and mini dresses as seen at Gucci,” continues Sinead. “I personally love a denim dress for Pre-Fall — it’s always a smart choice and looks effortlessly cool when styled with a light roll neck and knee-high boots.” We’re particularly fond of Victoria Beckham’s off-centre button- through knee-length skirt in a classic stonewash fade too, as well as Diesel’s (yes, them again) floor-length number, also in a stone-washed fade. “For daytime I love the double denim look of a skirt and denim jacket paired with statement flats and a soft, oversized leather tote,” adds Sinead. “I also love the idea of layering up my denim with a shirt and roll neck for the perfect day-to-day look.”
Not just for day, there are a number of denim drops this season designed to be worn after hours, particularly at Gucci, with pieces including a blue, long-sleeved washed denim jacket that comes doused in sparkle. Then there’s Dsquared2, which showed a heavily studded mini-skirted jumper with chain straps, in a classic wash, under a ribbed white cropped tank and red faux fur jacket. “I’ll definitely be taking inspiration from Valentino too — I love the buttoned down silk blouse tucked into belted, wide legged denim pants,” enthuses Sinead. “Style it up with heels and statement earrings for extra evening sparkle.”
