Is The Polo Shirt Replacing The Tank Top This Summer?

There aren’t many fashion trends going strong today that can say they hail from the 6th century BCE. The ubiquitous garment that is the polo shirt, however, has origins that long precede its iconic embroidered equestrian and reptilian motifs, dating back to when polo was first played in Persia and other parts of central Asia. Initially Indian polo players wore thick, long-sleeve cotton shirts, but they soon became dissatisfied with the way their collars flipped upwards during matches and instead attached buttons to make the collars feel less suffocating. And so the polo shirt was born.

Fast forward to 1929 and, upon failing to find a comfortable alternative to the starchy tennis whites of the day, French polo player René Lacoste, also known by his nickname ‘Crocodile’, decided to create his own — this time with short sleeves, a top row of buttons and a collar. That said, we have Ralph Lauren to thank for the staple becoming one of sportswear’s greatest crossover hits — in 1972 he introduced his iconic Polo Shirt, which still sells out five decades later. “The polo shirt, championed by iconic brands like Lacoste, Ralph Lauren and Fred Perry, was at first synonymous with sporting activities,” CCO of Mytheresa Richard Johnson tells MOJEH. “While René Lacoste’s design was initially tailored for tennis matches in a piqué cotton fabric, Ralph Lauren played a significant role in popularising the polo shirt as a fashion staple. He incorporated it into his preppy, sport-inspired world, elevating its status from athletic wear to a symbol of casual elegance.”

Today the humble polo shirt is being revamped for a whole new generation, with countless designers incorporating them into their SS24 collections — albeit with a high fashion makeover. “The polo shirts emerging this season appear to be refined, with more feminine and preppy interpretations of the noughties renaissance observed in prior seasons,” say Johnson. “While some are designed for casual wear, many are intended for more formal occasions, including workwear or even eveningwear in certain instances.”

Leading the pack, all eyes were on Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu — one of the most influential fashion shows on the calendar — where some models came dressed like public school boys in navy polo shirts paired with baggy board shorts, blazers and boat shoes. That said, they were far removed from the PE kit polo of yesteryear. We also saw them teamed with frilly minis and sandals, or layered with shirts, while for his debut Gucci collection Sabato De Sarno showed fine crochet knits with red and green striped detailing on the collar and cuffs.

“We are definitely looking at a more versatile fashion statement this time around,” explains Johnson. “This evolution is evident in various updates including colour variations, fabrics and shape modifications. Then there’s the fact that the contemporary polo shirt often comes with coordinating skirts or shorts, enabling the creation of cohesive ensembles. This updated iteration exudes a chicer and more sophisticated aura, giving it an overall smarter feel.” While those looking to channel the trend in a less schoolgirl way should look to The Row (we saw soft pink versions with no logos or stripes, and styled with a midi-skirt and waterproof coat), the preppy polo also made an appearance at the likes of Loewe, Givenchy, Victoria Beckham and MSGM — the latter opting for serene blue hues as well as oversized striped golf shirts adorned with beautiful 3D flowers as a continuation of the sporting theme. On the same train of thought, rugby shirts made an appearance at Dries Van Noten and Dsquared2, where they came with wide horizontal stripes, an Ivy League colour palette and paired with sequins for an extra hit of glamour.

We saw the trend at the Pre-Fall shows too, with Chanel teaming a striped polo shirt with bikini bottoms and enormous heels, while celebrities have also been jumping on board — earlier this year both Rihanna and Hailey Bieber were spotted in Loewe’s cropped striped polo with baggy jeans. “Pairing it with denim creates a pared-back look, while combining it with a midi skirt or an eveningwear skirt adds sophistication,” adds Johnson. “To achieve a more refined look, consider opting for an elevated black or grey knitted version.”

As seasons come and go, expect the polo shirt to continue to evolve in style and design, as designers pick up from where Ralph Lauren started. “It remains a timeless piece of clothing with a rich history spanning over a century,” says Johnson. “I can’t see that changing any time soon.”