Vionnet’s cobalt-coloured collar necklace duplicates the sail-like structure of the Burj Al Arab, the world’s most luxurious hotel. The building’s creator, British architect Tom Wright, completed the beloved icon in 1999, after becoming inspired by the traditional Arabian sailing vessel, commonly known as the dhow.
Architecture has influenced graphic jewellery for centuries. The crown worn by Princess Blanche, daughter of King Henry IV, on her wedding day is the oldest surviving royal headdress known to have been in England. Dating back to the 14th Century, its spectacular solid gold framework is generously studded with cerulean sapphires, cardinal rubies, vibrant emeralds and brilliant diamonds. The bejewelled circlet marks a significant cornerstone in high jewellery design. Despite resembling the traditional fleur-de-lys, which was common among European royalty, the intricate construction of hexagonal shapes and enamel openwork boasts first-rate architectural qualities, which was groundbreaking for the time.
“There has always been a strong relationship between architecture and the human body,” reveals architectural designer Alice Dammery. “Both involve creating a structure to fit a specific context. For example, the brief for Falling Water by Frank Lloyd Wright involved constructing a home over a site with a waterfall – its cantilevered floors and monolithic concrete slab structure coming out of the landscape is site specific, in the same way a cascade of diamonds hanging over a woman’s chest in the form of a necklace is made for the site, only the site is the human body.” She adds, “Many historical buildings can also be seen to mimic the body. For example, in Ancient Greece columns took the shape of human beings.”
Taiwanese artisan Cindy Chao is one of the most sought-after contemporary high jewellers in the world. Her exquisite one-of-a-kind, hand-made creations boast breathtaking depth and movement using various sculptural dimensions. Although Chao spent six years studying jewellery design in America, she credits her family with her artistic talent and subsequent success. Her father was a sculptor and her grandfather an architect. “Growing up with a heritage of sculptors and architect predecessors, I have always seen jewellery as miniature pieces of sculpture,” she tells MOJEH. “Organic structures, lighting, space and engineering all work together to bring out a vitality, a unique energy, in each piece.”
