SS20 Haute Couture: All The Show-Stopping Looks From Day One

4 min read

From fancy feather embellishments to voluminous tiered dresses, here are the haute highlights from day one of SS20 Couture in Paris

ss20 couture

SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE

SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE
This is only the second couture collection for Daniel Roseberry, who made his design debut as Artistic Director of the iconic couture house in July last year. Roseberry was welcomed for his modern and innovative creative vision, and that was deployed throughout the SS20 couture show in Paris yesterday. Opening with a version of a black tux – decadently embellished and teamed with a plunge-neck blouse – the show gathered momentum with volume and colour. Dresses were sculpted like rosettes high off the shoulder, and thin straps spiralled upwards. The colour palette was aching in sophistication, at first, then an injection of electric blue paved the way for a few clashing, bolder and brighter looks.

SS20 couture shows

IRIS VAN HERPEN

IRIS VAN HERPEN
This was fashion as art in its truest form. The ways in which Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen manages to manipulate fabric so that it looks fluid is incredible, as is the height and structure she manages to achieve layering such delicate fabrics. To see the clothes move is poetry in motion, although it’s hard not to be distracted by the technicality involved. The “Sensory Seas” collection draws inspiration from our central nervous system – the microscopic detail and the fibrous marine ecology of our oceans. Neuroanatomist Ramón y Cajal’s anatomical drawings and findings were referenced, as was depths of the Hydroza – a class of delicate sea-life organisms. This collection was typically futuristic in feel, cementing Van Herpen’s reputation as a forward-thinking creator.

GEORGES HOBEIKA

GEORGES HOBEIKA

GEORGES HOBEIKA
This couture collection took inspiration from the listening beaches of Sardinia, although there wasn’t a beach-appropriate outfit in sight. Instead high octane glamour was the order of the day. Sunset shades and sherbet-inspired hues took on unapologetically feminine silhouettes – cascading ruffles, the fullest of skirts and boned corsets. There was plenty of technical detail to admire – knife pleat floral gowns, gold fringing that managed to reflect the light so perfectly, sculpting, embellishment and laser-cut fabrics – it was all present and correct. Highlights included the over-sized fringed headgear that crowned some models, as well as the most delicious lemon meringue tiered dress. Hobeika also debuted his first men’s couture designs.

ss20 couture shows

MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ

MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ
Lebanese designer, Kayrouz, exercised a new restrained elegance for his SS20 couture show. Looks in solid primary colours, as well as a smattering of pink and gold dominated. And although it exuded a kind of minimal aesthetic at first glance, on closer inspection the details were unearthed. The intricacy in which panels of fabric were strung and woven together, a flawlessly placed pleat, emphasised pockets and shoulders, the effect created by all the different-sized sequins which were visibly strung to dresses – the collection was either deconstructed to reveal the craftsmanship, or constructed in way which celebrated it.

RALPH & RUSSO

RALPH & RUSSO

RALPH & RUSSO
It was the discovery of a new decade at the Ralph & Russo SS20 couture show in Paris yesterday, and craftsmanship was at the forefront of the agenda. It was a “youthful and modern interpretation” of Ralph & Russo couture icons. The Australian designers took inspiration from the archives, reimagining each piece with contemporary flair. From the colour palette to dresses adorned with hand-painted details, sequin suiting rolled into rosettes, delicate floral embellishments and bow hair pieces – femininity was embraced every which way. There were more than a few Oscar-worthy contenders in there, too. We’ll be keeping our eyes peeled as to which looks show up on the red carpet next month.

GIAMBATTISA VALLI

GIAMBATTISA VALLI

GIAMBATTISA VALLI
The Parisian Couture house opted for a presentation for their SS20 show, titled 18, simply because it is their 18th Haute Couture collection. Press and public were invited to view the exhibition celebrating the true savoir-faire of the ateliers. It was mirage of fantasy, florals and femininity. Yellow feathers danced lightly over giant tulle skirts and sleeves, floral patterns were beautifully disrupted when models moved and the print revealed its true fringed from, and, as is customary for the brand – volume was celebrated in the most fanciful ways. Whatever dramatics were missing by way of a catwalk show, were made up for in the looks. It seems unbefitting to call them clothes at this stage, as they were so, so much more than that.

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  • Words by Elaine Lloyd-Jones
  • Images: Getty Images