‘Perfection is an abstract concept that is difficult to achieve in reality’, Mr. Armani tells me. ‘The pursuit of perfection is, however, the constant stimulus that drives my work, with the aim to get closer to true beauty. And I believe that this on-going search is an element that is appreciated by my audience and clientele’, he says. As his haute couture spring/summer 15 collection hit the runway, the beauty was in his perfected pieces. With a distinct sartorial nod to Japan, the fusion of the strength and delicacy of bamboo acted as a tool of inspiration. Bamboo shoots in natural green adorned tops like shutters and sprouted from heavy – near floor-skimming – cardigans. Kimono-style dressing was prevalent as belts looped over waists and sleeves were given a touch of corner elongation. The bamboo artistry delicately painted across fabric was in complete contrast to the robustly constructed bamboo-formed accessories. From handbags to earrings, the plant was positioned as the collection’s maker – some with a gleam of seventies’ Perspex. Light watercolours flowed from each design. The culture and traditions of Asia have served Armani well as fruitful inspiration over the years. ‘For this collection I was inspired by bamboo, a plant with a solid stem, to which seemingly fragile, thin and elegant leaves sprout. In this element, I saw a metaphor of how a woman should be: strong, but also not afraid to show her most fragile and delicate side. The clothes are not constrictive, but soft, and move well on the body’, he says.
It’s the fluidity of Mr. Armani’s work that has been the gatekeeper to the decades of his sartorial success. He changed the way men and women dress, or view day-to-day dressing. ‘In the seventies and eighties women decidedly faced certain areas of work for the first time, showing themselves as equal or possibly superior to men. They needed clothes that represented them adequately in the competition with the stronger sex. This is where the idea of the power suit came from’, he recalls. With his master tailoring skills in tow, he deconstructed the stiffness from suits and such: removed buttons, changed lapels, unravelled proportions and softened shoulders. He made way for wearable daily fashion. Launching the Armani label in 1975, the face of seventies’ fashion took a decidedly fluidly fun focus. Switching between opposing forces, Mr. Armani brought gentleness to men, and strength to women through clothes. ‘Today ... women have also agreed to show their softer, feminine side, without making themselves dolls. The Armani woman has a personal idea of seduction and style. She is autonomous, independent and rather than turning to the culture of excess, she prefers something more sophisticated, authentic and personal. I cater to her needs by offering uniquely elegant clothes that are authentic and natural’, he says.
But Mr. Armani could have easily taken a different route. Initially studying medicine at the university of Piacenza he dropped out after three years. For a man of sheer determination a college dropout doesn’t sit well within his own descriptive story – but fate dealt him a very good hand. After enrolling in two years’ compulsory military service and serving his time for the army, he never returned to complete his studies. All fuelled by his lack of belief in his academic qualities and desire to move out of his parents’ home and earn his own money. The middle child of three, his father worked as an accountant for a transport company. But it was his mother who was the decisive force – like most Italian families. Embarking upon his first fashion role as a window-dresser for La Rinascente in Milan it acted as a catalyst for carving his career. After a stint as a buyer’s assistant, he was then spotted by Nina Cerruti and hired as a designer for new menswear line, Hitman. And the rest is history.
Giorgio Armani has written itself into the history books. A brand that over the course of 40 years has become renowned for its clean and sharp tailoring. With the success of his other lines behind him it would only make for a savvy business decision to walk the line of haute couture. In 2005, Mr. Armani sent his first couture collection along the catwalk in Paris. With the recent celebration (at the time) of his 70th birthday and the 30-year-anniversary of his label, entering couture moved the brand forward into the future – but it wasn’t a straightforward decision. ‘I must confess that the idea to get involved in high fashion was a thought that came and went, because I was trying to figure out if it was the right choice at the time’, he recalls with honesty. ‘In hindsight, I can say that it was the right choice, an important step in my career. Today my Privé collection has a solid and real clientele of women who have a special lifestyle and need clothes that fit the bill. It’s a result that perhaps I would not have imagined 10 years ago, something that today brings extreme satisfaction’, he says. With long- line fishtail silhouettes and flowing skirts in champagne duchess satin, elegance was evident throughout his first couture collection 10 years ago. Necklines were sculpted into off-the-shoulder or halterneck designs. Bodices were beaded and jackets were embroidered with aplomb. Year after year, Mr. Armani has unfailingly catered to his couture clientele. Now, 10 years later and Mr. Armani’s move into couture still remains fairy tale- like: ‘Even today, haute couture remains a dream, the ultimate expression of the best artisan craftsmanship, the heritage of know-how linked to the purest of creativity and imagination’, he says.' This aspect has not changed.
More than anything else, I find that the change in recent years has been the occasions in which such significant clothes are worn. Today there are many more events for which it is appropriate to wear haute couture clothing, from the red carpet and cocktail parties to private gallery openings and social events. It is the reason why I offer exquisite garments that are also suitable for daywear in my collection’, he concludes. For spring/summer 15, daywear pieces were evident throughout his designs. From softly tailored trousers to plissé jackets, it’s occasion dressing at its finest.
‘These ten years of Armani Privé have passed quickly, and saw me ride a wave of a great creative impulse’, Mr. Armani recalls. ‘For me, each season represented the acquisition and improvement of a new language that offers versions of the sophisticated naturalness of my style in a subtle and exquisite manner. Over time, my vision of high fashion has taken on a new idea of seduction and become open to the unexpected nature of eccentricity, while maintaining a consistent base, namely the idea of the naturalness of apparel that must never be a disguise, but rather a completion of the person’, he concludes. Looking back the Armani brand has achieved a wealth of creativity. Most importantly, Mr. Armani has never waned from his original aesthetic. Since their first show in 2005 the number of looks created has more than doubled: 31 back then, 68 now. A game of numbers has been central to the building of the Armani Empire. This ‘great creative impulse’ has extended to everything: from cosmetics to cafes to hotels to nightclubs, the Armani touch has crossed continents and every aspect of daily life.
But most days he wears navy blue. For a man with a complex mind and a creative outlook his personal dress sense is in complete opposition of him: it’s simple. Day- to-day it’s not unusual to see Mr. Armani wearing a simple plain t-shirt paired with jeans – or a fine navy blue suit. His style is modestly discreet – like him. Having previously stated that he valued discretion above all things, his own fashion evidently evokes this mind set, as too do his multiple fashion lines. Elegance and simplicity are at the heart of his work. ‘At the base of each collection, whether it is haute couture or prêt-à-porter, there is always an idea that needs to be materialised. The starting point is thus always a two-dimensional sketch, from which something three-dimensional can then be created. It is after this stage you start to work with the shapes, textures, finishes and volumes, always keeping in mind the basic requirements of my style, or rather comfort, function and beauty’, he says. From Emporio Armani to Giorgio Armani Privé, he has a host of lines to creatively consider. ‘Clearly there are differences between Giorgio Armani Privé and the other lines. The ready-to-wear collection is industrially produced at a very high level, while for Privé each garment is custom made in an atelier. Haute couture, being a laboratory for experimentation, gives me the opportunity to fully liberate the imagination and create exquisite clothes, those of dreams – for which hours and hours of work are required – for just a handful of customers’, he says.
^
Buying and selling ‘the dream’ lifestyle has been integral to the Armani brand since it’s inception. Do you remember Richard Gere and his fashionable attire in the cinematic classic American Gigolo? Of course, you do. The 1980 film launched the Armani brand into another level of success. The narcissistic character of Julian Kaye used his sense of style to squash all of his social insecurities. From his über cool sports jackets to seriously slick suits, Gere played a man you wanted to know, wanted to date, and really wanted to be. The message was clear: the Armani brand was and is part of a lifestyle choice. This choice has also witnessed the formation of the Armani woman: she’s elegant, understated and oozes sheer sophistication. The type of characteristics wholly executed by Hollywood actresses Cate Blanchett and Julianne Moore who’ve both been adorned in his designs.
Without regret Mr. Armani doesn’t speak English. He has always adamantly refused to learn. Keeping his fluent linguistic skills to Italian and French. That’s the thing about him: he does what he wants to do. This includes keeping the foundations of his vision the same since day one. Describing the Armani style of today, he says: ‘...a style characterised by the continuous search for harmonious lines, innovative materials, sophistication and quality. I would say that my idea of style and tastes are the same as when I started: they express a deep appreciation for all that is simple and straightforward. However since 1975, the times have certainly changed. Men and women have gradually freed themselves from protocols and rigidity, while finding different ways to express their personality. I aim to always keep up with the times, without altering the essential characteristics of my philosophy and aesthetic’, he concludes. And therein lies the backbone to the success of the Armani label. Yes, Mr. Armani has moved with the times, but his vision has remained the same.
As Mr. Armani ‘aims to get closer to true beauty’ he will undoubtedly retain his crown as the most successful Italian designer of all time. In the near future, Mr. Armani will celebrate the 40th anniversary of his label: ‘...a major event for which I will be involved in a series of events, starting with the large fashion show to be held at the opening of EXPO Milano 2015. In the meantime I am working diligently, looking to the future.’ Having previously said that he ‘hoped Armani can live without me’ his perfected vision will be a hard act to follow – for anyone. You can see it in his manner, his outlook, and his work: the need for perfection is ingrained within him. Mr. Armani’s perfected complexities are his own true beauty.
