Yassmin Saleh’s journey has been defined by a deep desire to tell her story and her designs serve as the canvas for her narrative. Born in Beirut, Lebanon and raised in Abu Dhabi, UAE the designer has always been captivated by the world of fashion, which eventually became more than just a passion, proving to be an emotional outlet for her thoughts and feelings. She later attended the Lebanese University, where she majored in fashion design. Her talent quickly garnered attention, winning the Jury Prize in 2015 and securing an internship at Elie Saab’s Beirut headquarters. A few years later, she received the Prize of Excellence for her collection The Dance of the Psyche, which applauded the quality and craftsmanship of her designs.
MOJEH: Your new Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Antipode, explores the concept of dualities. How did the theme of opposing forces shape your design process?
YASSMIN: This collection’s design process was challenging yet so rewarding. When I was sitting with the team talking about how we were going to go about designing it, we decided to set a structured design framework with rules: we had to create one look that was simple and intentional. The second step was to create its opposite or ‘antipode’. This time, the limitations opened the door to explore opportunities that I usually wouldn’t have explored. It was like playing a game with my mind and breaking the rules while following rules — if that makes sense.
Your signature smocking technique is reimagined in this collection. How does this technique add to the theme of duality?
Throughout our collections, we use traditional fabric manipulation techniques and try to find a way to modernise them and translate the emotion/story on to the garment. This smocking technique adds to the theme as the shape follows a honeycomb pattern, but once all the stitches meet, flowers are created at the meeting point, allowing the fabric to transform. It also plays with contrasts and structures the fabric while allowing movement, creating a tension between control and fluidity.
You’ve spoken about pushing the boundaries of your craft while staying true to modest pieces. How does this philosophy influence the pieces in this latest collection?
The collection balances bold fabric manipulations and fluid cuts with thoughtful coverage. The wearer can be versatile in style, whether it be through bold colours, structural elements or untraditional layering.
The trims in your SS25 collection are made from pebbles sourced from your native country, Lebanon — how does this personal touch add to the overall narrative of the pieces?
Inspired by Soetsu Yanagi’s The Beauty of Everyday Things, which encourages finding beauty in the ordinary, I chose to add pebbles from Lebanon to the garments. Instead of using conventional buttons, I embraced the natural elements around me, adding a personal and authentic layer to the collection story.
The Swirl brooch is a beautiful element to the Antipode collection, drawing inspiration from the spiral forms of seashells. How did you use the brooch and its imagery to add to the broader themes of the SS25 designs?
The Swirl brooch is more than just an accessory — it plays an active role in shaping the garments. I used it as a draping element, allowing the fabric to gather, fold and create movement. Whether pinned to a dress as a statement or subtly integrated into the structure of a piece, it blurs the line between function and embellishment.
The SS25 collection also features your Tattoo series, a staple in your work; this time you have opted for images of birds, shells and flowers — why?
The Tattoo series is always the most thought-out piece from the collection. As we aim to tell the story of the collection through a series of symbols on a white canvas, we wanted this series to be fun while following our usual design rules. Since this collection is all about dualities, we created symbols that reflect that balance. Birds symbolise freedom and movement, shells represent protection and resilience, and flowers embody growth and transformation.
You often take inspiration from events in your life. For example, your SS18 collection was heavily influenced by your home in Lebanon. Where do you find your inspiration when creating a new collection?
I design based on our experiences, both personal and collective. Living in Lebanon, with all its ups and downs, creates emotions that I translate into each collection. Our goal is to spark conversation through fashion, turning these emotions into wearable narratives.
Outside your own influences, what kind of woman do you design for? Who is she in your mind?
We are a brand founded by women, for women, women who appreciate a meaningful conversation behind their clothing. She is thoughtful, curious and drawn to pieces that carry a story. She values craftsmanship and the idea that fashion can be both art and dialogue. Explore the collections
Originally Published in the March 2025 Issue of MOJEH. Subscribe here
