She’s a Man Repeller

As fashion shifts from minimalism to maximalism, Italian labels are spearheading a whole new aesthetic as the ‘Man Repeller’ look starts to reign.  

Women haven’t been this excited about all things new since Phoebe Philo started turning her hand at Celine in 2008. You can see it on the runway: from brilliant balloon shapes at Marni and a kaleidoscopic colour palette at Prada to chaotic clashing prints at Marco de Vincenzo. You can see it in the silhouettes: hemlines have dropped and necklines have become higher. Retro pieces – such as the turtleneck, pussy bow blouses and spectacles – have all shaken off their stuffy connotations and embraced a modern makeover. Moreover, a cheerful disregard for the male gaze is spreading. A new sex appeal has been born in the form of the ‘Man Repeller’.

“Whilst there will always be a place in your wardrobe for clean lines and a simple silhouette, it has been refreshing to see a shift away from the minimalist looks and neutral colour palette that has been prevalent for so long  – designers are looking to engage and inspire and offer the consumer a point of difference – whether with new shapes, bold colours or interesting textures and colours clash,” says Natalie Kingham, Buying Director at Matchesfashion.com. “Brands such as Marques Almeida, Ellery, Marco di Vincenzo, Isa Arfen, Vetements, Joshua Sanders and Wales Bonner all have a strong viewpoint and distinct signature style which our customer loves.” Man Repeller, a fashion website founded and written by American businesswoman and writer Leandra Medine, has built a successful career out of the idea of ‘man-repelling’ clothing since launching five years ago. A Man Repeller, Medine explains on the site, is “she who outfits herself in a sartorially offensive mode that may result in repelling members of the opposite sex. Such garments include but are not limited to harem pants, boyfriend jeans, overalls, shoulder pads, full-length jumpsuits, jewellery that resembles violent weaponry and clogs.” The phrase is becoming a buzzword, and women are having fun with it. We’re taking delight in wearing clothes with a complete disregard for the male gaze. Do we care? Or – more importantly should we care? No. Fashion is having fun with maximalism, as we move away from the more serious silhouette of minimalism.

It’s a new look where anything goes. Celebrities such as Alexa Chung and Chloë Sevigny achieve the trend with ease. Think: Slouchy dungarees with a pair of Converse and cat-eye sunglasses in neon orange? Or – a pink man’s oversized shirt with Seventies’ style glitter-laden platforms and perfectly patched high-waisted cropped jeans. The key to success lies in the styling. Layering and clashing are common ground. It’s a trend that style setter Dalia Nsouli believes will be adopted without fault in the Middle East. “I think we’re much better positioned to accommodate the new trend because I think we’ve always favoured ‘more’ to less. For example, the simple pyjama trend never took off in the Middle East; neither did other more minimalist trends because it’s not what really appeals to the local tastes here. Arabs like the louder more bold pieces as opposed to the simple lines proffered in the West, so the next couple of seasons should do very well here,” she said.  

But the unthinkable has happened: “man repelling” has stormed Milan. The city has long been the home of full-on sex appeal. From figure-hugging dresses that have often been associated with Versace to leggy ensembles at Roberto Cavalli, the Italians invented sex appeal. But has fashion turned its back on our traditional sense of sexiness? One man has turned the tables: Alessandro Michele for Gucci. A label that once flirted with a slick, dark and glossy world is now channelling the vision of Renaissance princesses and French philosophers. The label had been stagnating both commercially and creatively in recent years. Michele was presented with the challenge of declining sales and an out-dated aesthetic. But – against all odds his first show for autumn/winter 15 was met with an outpouring of love, and sales are up. Michele has come up trumps with a better than expected five percent rise in sales for the final three months of 2015 was reported. “With its decidedly nostalgic and retro mood we absolutely loved this collection and knew it would appeal to our customers for the same reasons. I love the romantic and kooky spirit of the collection and Alessandro perfectly encapsulated the mood of the season with his offbeat prints, clashing colours and retro accessories – I think we will be seeing a lot more of this is the coming seasons. We have found women wanting those easy-to-wear pieces that can be effortlessly worn day-to-evening with a simple accessory update,” said Kingham. He brought back the double G logo, a romantic vision of an Italian aristocrat, and much more. What Philo has done for Celine, Michele has started to achieve on the same level at Gucci. And it’s spreading. “This season is for the true romantics with unapologetically feminine ankle-length dresses from Erdem or Marques Almeida’s deconstructed ruffled chiffon pieces. Our customers have embraced this new romantic austerity as it feels fresh and new and a more modern way to wear the ruffles, bows and lace. A tiered skirt is the silhouette of choice, whilst there is still an unexpected masculine edge to this trend at Oscar de la Renta and Proenza Schouler with the contrasting black ribbon detail,” says Kingham. It’s all very romantic, but with a whole lot of gusto. For spring/summer 16, Marc Jacobs clashed prints and patterns with a multitude of textures. Retro granny-style cardigans were given a rebirth with opulent sequin bows. Artistry-like doodles were splashed across dresses, coats and jumpers – with simple lace panels. And what about Emilio Pucci? Massimo Giorgetti’s second collection for the house for autumn/winter 16 showcased an entirely different aesthetic that’s been previously associated with the house. Activewear formed the cornerstone to the entire collection, but everything was oversized, with high necklines and strong patterns. Subtly didn’t get a look in. At Fendi, for autumn/winter 16, the home of opulent fur coats, this season’s mink has been decorated with flowers and stripes, and is worn with a dressing-gown belt. At Versace, Donatella played with a sportswear theme – high necks, elastic hairbands and slightly business-like. Dolce & Gabbana let flowers take on whole new realm in height and dimension as they engulfed coats.

It’s like designers have dipped into their childhood dressing up boxes, making retro look playfully modern. “I think the shift between minimalism and maximalism is just the fashion cycle progressing as usual. Some designers, and a certain portion of their customer base, are getting bored of the whole minimalist thing and are pushing against it. A few years from now, minimalism will be back with a vengeance,” says Brent Luvvas, a visual and cultural anthropologist based in Philadelphia. “The truth is that western women’s fashion has always been at least as concerned with the sensuous pleasure of the garments themselves as with the desire such garments may evoke in others.” It’s long been a topic of discussion. Do women dress for men or for other women? The fact that we take more pleasure in receiving a compliment about our outfit choice from a woman says it all. “Maybe I think through what I’m wearing a little bit more when I’m hanging out with my girlfriends; fashion is our badge of honour, right? It’s the male equivalent of wearing a jersey to root for your favourite sports team and bond with like-minded fans,” Leandra Medine recently said. According to Forbes.com, women now control $20 trillion in annual consumer spending globally. So, is it any wonder we want a little fun with our fashion? Playing with our basic instincts, shifting from minimalism to maximalism, the ‘Man Repeller’ and her new found sex appeal is only getting started.