With the usual merry-go-round of fashion shows put to a halt this year, it gave Saint Laurent the opportunity to present its SS21 collection a little differently. As such, Anthony Vaccarello forwent an elaborate Paris show and instead presented a hypnotic film by his creative accomplice Nathalie Canguilhem, which showed models strutting across sandbanks in an undisclosed location that is almost as stunning as the collection itself.
Featuring relaxed, mainly monochrome looks with a playful air, Vaccarello’s latest collection may have been toned down slightly in true 2020 style, but it still offers wearers a sort of escapism, with select party pieces that instill hope for a more fabulous 2021.
Think plenty of feathered trims that add a luxurious touch to several pieces, plus flowy fluid chiffon dresses that are perfect for a post-pandemic night out, Saint Laurent also presented a number of lively floral printed swing dresses complete with marabou trim that have us dying to leave the house.
Anthony Vaccarello also found himself delving into the YSL archives with the jersey-style dressing of which Saint Laurent as a fan of in the 60s, with a dramatic cape thrown in for good measure. A Saint Laurent staple, the 2021 version is lightweight, trimmed with feathers and crafted in luxe sheer materials.
Elsewhere the waistcoat, white silk blouse and smoking jacket made an appearance – an integral element of YSL’s androgynous tailoring revolution of the 70s – as did a statement collar, which is nowadays seen as a Zoom essential. And while they may not have made an appearance since the days of school proms, Anthony Vaccarello is bringing the corsage back, attaching the chic flower in a palette of cream and black to a number of his ensembles.
We’re already calling it as the accessory of 2021.
These are complemented by statement jewellery, with select pieces designed by Claude Lalanne, that bright touches of colour throughout the lineup.
“I wanted to focus on the essence of things. I think it’s a sign of the times,” says Vaccarello of the collection. “But I didn’t want anything bleak or heavy. The desert, to me, symbolises that yearn for serenity, open space, a slower rhythm. The clothes are also softer, the spirit of the collection is more gentle, stripped back.”
You can explore our favourite looks from the Saint Laurent SS21 collection here: