Roksanda Ilinčić unveiled her Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, drawing profound inspiration from an unlikely source: the modest 12-square-foot holiday cabin of Le Corbusier,in the splendid Côte d'Azur; a choice of muse, seemingly echoing the opulence of aristocratic creativity.
The Serbian designer's show is one of the most anticipated in the London fashion calendar for, her audacious colour palettes, and the pristine elegance of its silhouettes.
Ilinčić focused particularly on echoing the 'free-spirited' essence of Le Corbusier's murals; the collection brought to life tapestry-like ensembles, notably a captivating cape and a gown embellished with abstract motifs. The use of ropes, artfully draped across ballgowns and cinching coats and gowns, emerged as a weaving of a narrative of restrained luxury and structural finesse.
The design process saw the studio team meticulously crafting hand-drawn prints, infusing the essence of Le Corbusier's oeuvre—from the vibrant hues to the evocative representations of hands and faces—imbued with the distinct aesthetic sensibility of the Serbian designer. These artistic renditions were then entrusted to a bespoke artisanal workshop in Italy, where the visions were transformed into creations. Take, for instance, a top and skirt, a dress, and a dramatic cape, the latter boasting a trailing train that magnificently showcased the artwork.
A deliberate rawness characterised the collection, with threads left intentionally frayed, lending an air of artful incompleteness. Ilinčić articulated this design philosophy, expressing a desire to evoke the semblance of an artful, spontaneous draping, akin to wrapping oneself in a tapestry or blanket effortlessly thrown on, yet exuding an innate elegance. This collection, in its essence, captures the juxtaposition of simplicity and complexity, an ode to the architectural brilliance of Le Corbusier, reinterpreted through the optimistic lens of Ilinčić
