The Met Gala on Monday might have been sponsored by Loewe, but the name generating the most buzz was John Galliano. His creations under Maison Margiela were worn by the likes of Zendaya, Kim Kardashian, Gwendoline Christie, billionaire philanthropist Natasha Poonawalla, Latin trap sensation Bad Bunny, and actor Adrien Brody.
And if it that wasn't enough. Ariana Grande (who arrived dressed in Loewe) performed for guests in a stunning bespoke Maison Margiela Artisanal dress by John Galliano. Her transformative outfit began with an off-white spider-webbed crinoline over a white organdie smock which later revealed a forest-green draped tulle dress adorned with rosettes, hand-sprayed gold dust and crystal and mirror embroidery. The look was completed with Christian Louboutin shoes for Maison Margiela.
Indeed, it seems that in recent months, John Galliano has been quietly plotting to re-enter public consciousness. A notable moment was in January when he received rave reviews for his Maison Margiela artisanal show. The models, wearing makeup with porcelain glass effect created by the celebrated makeup artist Pat McGrath, practically broke the internet. The British designer has served as creative director for this house since 2014, a role he was offered after the scandal that led to his fashion exile. Galliano was dismissed from his position as creative director of Dior in 2011 following an antisemitic rant. As is widely known, his close friend Anna Wintour has been steadily advocating for his return to the spotlight.
Some fashion critics argued that Gwendoline Christie and Natasha Poonawalla wore his creations with confidence, reflecting the collection's intended aesthetic. In contrast Kim Kardashian seemed less at ease in her outfit. According to reports, Kardashian's ultra-tight corset didn't allow her to breathe properly and she was visibly struggling on the steps.
For her part, Zendaya, who has confessed that in the past she's found the Met Gala to be "terrifying", wore not one but two different looks during the event. First she walked the 'green carpet' in a John Galliano gown inspired by a 1999 Dior piece. Then, just before the celebrity arrivals wrapped up, the Challengers actress returned in a Givenchy dress from 1996, from when John Galliano was the Creative Director at the esteemed French house. Law Roach, Zendaya’s longtime stylist, has on many occasions pulled from vintage archives to dress his clients; this was not an unusual move for the style expert.
Reportedly, behind the scenes, Wintour and Andrew Bolton (MET Costume Institute curator ) initially sought to feature Galliano in an exhibit but faced resistance. They pivoted to the "Sleeping Beauty's/Garden of Time" theme instead. However, Galliano's prominence at the gala, suggested groundwork was being laid for a future exhibit focused on the designer.
Wintour also spoke about the confusion surrounding the Met Gala theme on Today, "I said, ‘What are we gonna say to people to wear to this night?’ And [Bolton] said, ‘Well, what about ‘Garden of Time?’ So, I fear that we’ve unleashed a lot of confusion out there, and for which I deeply apologize." While the exhibition title remained the MET's 'Sleeping Beauties,' the dress code was 'Garden of Time.' Still very open to interpretation, but unsurprisingly, there was an abundance of flowers and an enchanted garden mood.
Another factor hinting to a big Galliano comeback is Kevin Macdonald's new documentary, "High & Low: John Galliano," which seemed to set the stage for a more public return for the designer, possibly even a new job. Indeed, it has been rumoured recently that Galliano could be offered the top job at Givenchy, since the house has been without a creative director since Matthew Williams left at the end of 2023.
Nonetheless, the attention reinforced Margiela's position in high fashion and demonstrated Galliano's continued relevance. Will next year's gala be dedicated to the controversial designer? It remains to be seen.
