Fashion Week is underway in Paris, showcasing autumn/winter 2024 menswear collections. Though fashion weeks are separated by gender, the fluidity of modern fashion means females can (and should!) keep up-to-date with styles stomping the men's runways, as women borrowing from the boys becomes more and more common. Here, MOJEH rounds-up our favourite shows so far.
Isabel Marant
Marant's Autumn-Winter collection was born from her and creative director Kim Bekker's intuitive sensibilities, epitomizing what she termed "preppy grunge," they told Vogue. Marant's distinctive Parisian nonchalance, forever in perfect harmony and never overthought, has remained unmatched for three decades.
The French designer aimed to challenge norms, shatter conventions, and eliminate boundaries. She emphasized the importance of "little accidents." She explained to Vogue, "It's all about wearing things in a spontaneous, unexpected way that gives the guy a special character." While each piece in these looks seemed relatively straightforward on its own, when combined, the look exudes attitude, a testament to the collection's unique blend of style and substance.
AMI
Alexandre Mattiussi continues to embrace the essence of spring's relaxed nonchalance. His collection revisits the core elements, curating a genuine fall wardrobe filled with impeccably tailored fluid silhouettes. Expect generous overcoats and suits, expertly crafted with just the right amount of slouch, wide-leg trousers, and comfortable flat shoes, all swathed in comfortable fabrics.
Drawing inspiration from '90s minimalism, a period he holds dear as the time when his love for fashion blossomed, Mattiussi presents tailoring in shades of peach, pale yellow, and a beautifully smudged beige. These tones seamlessly blend with classic fall colors such as elegant grey, timeless black, and rich chocolate brown.
The proportions of the collection elongate the body, exuding sophistication in women's wear, while offering a substantial yet relaxed silhouette for men. To add a playful touch and textured depth, the designer added fur hoodies and jumpers, sparkly accents with sequins, and check prints, elevating the collection's visual allure.
Yohji Yamamoto
Despite building an oeuvre consisting mainly of black garments, Yamamoto has moved to include more color in recent seasons. Wide trousers, waistcoats, and coats were held together with stitches and enlarged safety pins, blazer lapels came with unfinished edges, and spare fabrics were sewn onto clothes like embroideries, ensuring Yamamoto’s edginess remained present in every piece. It’s very difficult to create unfinished garments that look well made. It’s a testament to Yamamoto’s design acumen that you can see the skill that goes into creating that balance between rawness and perfection.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten has continued a recurrent theme of these autumn collections, adding another chapter to the “familiar-unfamiliar, unfamiliar-familiar” theme he talked about at his last women’s show. Dries Van Noten's collection reintroduced precise tailoring in coats with cinched waists, creating a long and lean silhouette in look 20 and look 29. This approach, understated yet reminiscent of a revived masculine glamour, exudes avant-garde appeal. Additionally, they sported sleek black leather shoes that resembled elegant slippers, bringing us to an intriguing style observation: these were not sneakers. Could it be that formal footwear is experiencing a resurgence after all these years?
While most suiting and outerwear retained a relaxed silhouette, the collection's refreshing color palette and experimentation with digital prints injected a youthful and fun spirit. Dries Van Noten's talent for layering further emphasized the collection's dynamic and contemporary vibe.
Amiri
Rick Owens
Home is where the heart is. For Rick Owens, home is where 100 fashion insiders, buyers and friends gather to view a dystopian autumn/winter 2024 collection. For the sinister collection titled Porterville, the designer blew silhouettes out of proportion in the very best way, somehow turning balloons into boots and extending pointed puffers above ears while knotted, blanket-esque furs swamped bodies. The iconic Rick Owens colourway remains intact for the autumn/winter 2024 season, as does the knowledge that a seat at a Rick Owens show is the most coveted on the calendar.
