At Anthony Vaccarello's latest show for Saint Laurent, the setting was a thoughtful nod to the brand's rich history, drawing inspiration from the salons at Avenue Marceau, the original headquarters. The venue was designed as two interconnected figure-of-eight spaces, bathed in soft lighting, with curtains enveloping the walls bordered by low leather sofas.
The collection was a masterclass in the delicate balance of sensuality and volume. And as usual with Vaccarello, he explored a single theme in all its forms. Sharp and sheer ensembles flirted with the light, while the more voluminous shapes asserted their presence with an unapologetic boldness. However, the collection also hinted at an exploration of imposing tailoring, with outerwear boasting broad shoulders and interspersed with leather cocoon coats. Indeed, the latter seems to be the outerwear trend of the season.
Sheerness has long been a hallmark of Saint Laurent. During the late 1960s, amidst the second-wave feminism, the desinger presented sheer organza blouses and transparent tops, signaling a tribute to gender equality rather than mere exhibitionism. He merged risqué fashion with the era's burgeoning sexual freedom, often presenting models braless on the runway. Tonight almost all of Vaccarello’s 48-look collection were transparent.
He occasionally swapped sheer pencil skirts for dresses featuring garter-shaped hems that seamlessly integrated with tights. Ah yes tights. All the sheer pieces where made with that same material, precisely. These "pantyhose" ensembles were all delicately pleated and draped and meticulously pinned in place. The styling and accessories added the perfect finishing touches: waists accentuated with slim leather belts, or gilded chain links, head wraps, chunky earrings and stacked bangles —all offering a subtle nod to the brand's rich heritage while infusing it with a fresh perspective.
The stoles and voluminous coats models sported were crafted from marabou feathers lending the looks a distinctive character that was both bold and light, yet remained effortlessly stylish.
The colour palette was dominated by classic hues such as sand, khaki, gold, earth brown, and black, punctuated by occasional bursts of slate blue, burgundy, and lavender. Each look was complemented by sleek, spike-heeled slingbacks or patent ankle peep-toe sandals, adding to that unmistakable YSL glamour. This presentation was a testament to Vaccarello's ability to navigate the rich legacy of the renowned French house while imprinting his distinctive mark, marrying the robustness of tailoring with the delicate allure of chiffon in a dance of contrasts that was both refreshing and reverential.
